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When is it ok to "dry fire" a gun?

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#1 never dry fire a rimfire firearm

 

Yeah. That's a big nono.

 

 

Not always, most modern day rimfires are completely fine to dry fire. Rugers , for example say it's completly  fine to dryfire in the manual. When in doubt, revert to the manual, chances are - it's fine

 

 

 

Revolvers (except rimfire) are OK.

 

Where are you getting this information from ? Rimfire revolvers work no different from a centerfire revolver. Only difference being the cylinder and barrel chambered for 22. The only time it is NOT OK to dryfire a rimfire revolver is when you have an extended firing pin installed, such as the C&S Extended FP. The gap between the rear of the cylinder and where the FP protrudes is tighter resulting in an extended firing pin hitting the chambers on the cylinder.

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I dry fire my ARs and Glocks like a fiend with no issues. Most modern firearms will hold up to dry firing a reasonable amount with no issues. You start firing 10,000 times a day you may run into issues, but 50-100 clicks a day to work on a specific skill and you should be good to go.

 

Dry firing is an excellent and convenient way to work on admin skills and certain manipulations. If done correctly and with the right mindset is a great tool to help approach and maintain the level of unconscience competence.

 

Have a plan on what you want to work on, don't just start clicking away. Make sure you remove any and all ammo from the immediate area. Check the chamber, check it again, then check it one more time. The make sure that there is no ammo anywhere around you. Then adjust your mindset to training mode and pick a suitable backstop. Once that is done go to work on what you want to improve on.

 

Also, FYI - the free Surefire Shot Timer Ap for iPhone can be set sensitive enough to pick up your dry fire 'clicks'. Makes working on your drawstroke and reloads a measurable task to track improvements.

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Why would this be bad in any gun? Noob question

 

When you fire a gun with a live round in it, the firing pin travels forward and strikes the primer, bringing it to rest.

 

When the chamber is empty, the firing pin has nothing to stop it's forward momentum until it hits something else (usually hard steel) somewhere along the pin. That could, long term, cause damage.

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I have a novel idea, why not read the owner's manual. 

The owner's manual for every rim-fire firearm I own expressly stated that the firearm should NOT be dry-fired. 

Center-fire arms are generally good to go unless the receiver is disassembles.  Never dry-fire a disassembled receiver or trigger group. 

If you want to dry-fire a rim-fire firearm, just put a spent cartridge into the chamber, or load the magazine with snap caps. 

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Most rimfire guns the firing pin will strike the edge of the chamber.  Do it enough and it'll wear a score into the chamber face and cause FTF issues.  Not to mention the wear of the firing pin hitting steel versus a soft brass case.  

 

I found a random picture online of this: 

9PySmoT.jpg

 

As you can see, that little piece that got pushed out into the chamber will now cause some serious FTF issues(if a round would even chamber at all). 

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Just to add to Plode's post, a rimfire is ignited by pinching the rim. If there's no rim present to pinch, the pin starts peening the side of the chamber.

 

With centerfire the primer gets poked. If there's nothing present to poke the firing pin will stop by the firing pin spring and/or a shoulder on the pin itself. No harm no foul.

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Let this be a lesson, do not buy cheap rimfire guns. Any well made rimfire pistol or rifle will not have this dry fire restriction at all. Any company that allows the firing pin to peen the barrel is cutting corners or poor quality control. No problems with my CZ/S&W/Ruger/Kimber/Sig/Beretta. They are lots of fun with peace of mind.

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Let this be a lesson, do not buy cheap rimfire guns. Any well made rimfire pistol or rifle will not have this dry fire restriction at all. Any company that allows the firing pin to peen the barrel is cutting corners or poor quality control. No problems with my CZ/S&W/Ruger/Kimber/Sig/Beretta. They are lots of fun with peace of mind.

 

One of the highest regarded 22 target pistols is a Browning Buckmark, and it will hit on the chamber face if dry fired.  My friends Sig Mosquito firing pin also hits. 

This is directly out of the Sig Mosquito manual(Page 11, top right hand side):

Dry firing can cause damage to your pistol and create an unsafe condition.

Only Dry fire your pistol with the Dry Fire Plug installed in the chamber and the manual safety off.

 

Some hit, some don't, it has nothing to do with the quality of the gun. 

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You should not dry fire a 22 but its been done before many times over without negative repercussions.

When I first got my S&W 617 in .22lr, I dry fired using spent casings. I was told that was fine, since the firing pin was striking in the same place as during actual firing.

 

MUCH cheaper than snap caps.

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One of the highest regarded 22 target pistols is a Browning Buckmark, and it will hit on the chamber face if dry fired. My friends Sig Mosquito firing pin also hits.

This is directly out of the Sig Mosquito manual(Page 11, top right hand side):

Dry firing can cause damage to your pistol and create an unsafe condition.

Only Dry fire your pistol with the Dry Fire Plug installed in the chamber and the manual safety off.

 

Some hit, some don't, it has nothing to do with the quality of the gun.

Don't think the mosquito helps your quality argument here lol.

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I have a novel idea, why not read the owner's manual.

The owner's manual for every rim-fire firearm I own expressly stated that the firearm should NOT be dry-fired.

Center-fire arms are generally good to go unless the receiver is disassembles. Never dry-fire a disassembled receiver or trigger group.

If you want to dry-fire a rim-fire firearm, just put a spent cartridge into the chamber, or load the magazine with snap caps.

Actually the Ruger mk series say it is fine to dry fire I don't have the manual but it has a front pin stop in the bolt Sonora does not hit the chamber face. It does say that if this peice is not installed correctly it will damage the chamber

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agree on 22 but any other gun is absolutely fine, dry fire away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Except a CZ-52 :)   While it's a centerfire, the stock firing pin is wedge shaped behind the tip and repeated dry firings will work-harden the tip and break it off.     This can be alleviated by adding a "competition" firing pin from Harrington products that includes a return spring.  I did it after breaking two because my slide wouldn't lock back after the last round, I would invariably pull the trigger on an empty chamber. I ended up replacing the stop as well. http://harringtonproducts.com/firing-pins/

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Actually the Ruger mk series say it is fine to dry fire I don't have the manual but it has a front pin stop in the bolt Sonora does not hit the chamber face. It does say that if this peice is not installed correctly it will damage the chamber

 

That picture I posted above is of a Ruger which came from the factory with the pin installed incorrectly. 

 

Personally i just dry fire with a spent casing in the chamber. 

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This is what I use to dry fire my Sig Mosquito. It's inexpensive because they have limited use in that the rim gets imprinted and deformed by the firing pin with every trigger pull. You also cannot cycle these rounds from a magazine. You have to drop them directly into the chamber.

opplanet-tipton-snap-cap-rifle-22-rimfir

 

If I need to check cycling functionality from a magazine, I use the aluminum snap caps. These can be used to dry fire as well, but again, the rim will get imprinted and deformed by the firing pin with every trigger pull.

AZ12208_1__88697.1297399786.800.600.jpg

 

ETA, for every other caliber firearm I have I use the A-Zoom aluminum snap caps whenever I'm going to practice for a long period of time.

snaps.jpg

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