Getting Started in Reloading

[Heavyopp 167]

Get that tumbler running wet -- You'll never go back --  I saw you thought it was spinning too slow --  How many RPMs do you get out of the drum? --   Mine run 74 RPM with a 6" drum

 

I see they changed the lee primer seating tool -- Mine has the lever on the top, pushed with your thumb -- looks like the new one is more of a squeeze with your fingers -- new one may be more comfortable

 

 

I've never used a cartridge checker --  you could always used the chamber of your gun -- Remove the barrel 1st!!! ---  I've never had a round that wouldn't fit --  Just pay attention to what you're doing

[GRIZ 3,369]

Thanks every one,

 

I got the decapper because it says that the one that comes with the 4 die set is a resizer too, you cant put dirty brass in a resizer because it will scratch it.

I'm not saying you should run filthy brass in your sizer but if dirty brass scratches your carbide die it ain't carbide.

[Heavyopp 167]

I'm not so sure that the actual carbide of the die will scratch but the brass certainly will

[louu 399]

Get that tumbler running wet -- You'll never go back --  I saw you thought it was spinning too slow --  How many RPMs do you get out of the drum? --   Mine run 74 RPM with a 6" drum

 

I see they changed the lee primer seating tool -- Mine has the lever on the top, pushed with your thumb -- looks like the new one is more of a squeeze with your fingers -- new one may be more comfortable

 

 

I've never used a cartridge checker --  you could always used the chamber of your gun -- Remove the barrel 1st!!! ---  I've never had a round that wouldn't fit --  Just pay attention to what you're doing

For sure the next batch will be wet, Not really sure on the RPM's just looked a little slower than the video that I think Alex posted in your thread of his. Theres a 6" driven pulley on there now, next time I'm at Fazzios Ill grab a 5" and if that's still not fast enough I can go up to the next grove on my drive pulley (its from a drill press). This way I can use the same belt.

 

I really want to say a big thank you to you, BiggDawg and Smartass for building these things and the different ideas and posting all about it online.

 

Not sure what the old hand primer was like but this one is awesome. Its all steel, has a nice feel to it and is really easy to squeeze. I just wana keep on using it. It was $42 at the Oaks show friday.

 

 

I was thinking about popin out my barrel and using that but IDK, just didn't feel like it. I don't think I really need one because according to Lee the crimp die has one built in.

[louu 399]

Here it is!!! My first round.

 

I did 25 all together and it was really fun. I had to weigh every charge though because the dippers and that powder suck. The powder sticks to the dippers with static and none are the right size. I don't think I would use this powder in the auto disk, I just don't trust this stuff to meter well. I need to find better powder and get the auto measure.

 

Going to the range in the am and firing my first round that I made.

[HuntingPaper 62]

Congratulations!!

[Bully 749]

Looks like ammo to me!!

 

It's a fun adventure and really rewarding.  I honestly like it at least as much as shooting.  I find it to be VERY relaxing. 

 

C

[Heavyopp 167]

Funny, I was thinking the same thing --  It's a bullet

 

Is that your OAL? -- 1.220

 

It's OK to load longer -- My favorite load is a 200 grn semi wadcutter from ibeji loaded with 4.1 grn of promo with a 1.248 OAL  

[T Bill 649]

All powder has static cling. To minimize or eliminate, "dust" dippers with powdered graphite, dry lube spray, or wipe with a dryer sheet treated to take out static cling.

[louu 399]

Thanks guys

 

Its not just a bullet, its MY BULLET!!! haha just kidding.

 

I set my OAL at 1.260". The Lee book says min 1.260". The paper that came with the dies says max 1.275".

Factory Remington rounds are 1.257" and factory American Eagle's are 1.267"

 

Thanks T Bill, I'll try the dryer sheet for now because that's all I have lol.

[louu 399]

Well I just got back from the range and it was awesome!!! I was a little over excited so I didnt notice a diffrence from factory ammo for the first ten rounds of mine. The third set I settled down and nailed the 9 and 10 ring at 60 feet witch were 4.6 grains. The gun did feel a little smoother I think. I was so cold that I couldnt really feel anything though. 

 

Here it is, this is my verry first hand loaded round...

 

[Nikos 31]

Congrats on shooting your first reloads!

 

Cranking out a few rounds when you first start reloading is fun and patience is abundant. Once you get the hang of things, you start to look for ways to become much more efficient so that you can start knocking out a few boxes of ammo in less time. When that happens, you will most likely say goodbye to the hand primer, fill the turret with all four dies and add a few more things to your reloading bench.

 

Consider the following for the next stage of upgrades:

 

1. Lee pro auto disk - screws on top of your flaring die.

 

2. Lee adjustable charge bar  - gives you more control than the disks

 

3. Lee safety primer feed - prime your brass on the downstroke after they're sized / deprimed. 

 

Nikos

[T Bill 649]

Pick up that brass and learn the signs of overpressure.  I'm sure you don't have any with target loads, but get in the habit of checking new loads.  Can't stress this enough.  Only takes one mistake to change for a lifetime of pain or worse.  Checking brass for case/neck splits, blown primers, blown out bases are part of it too!  When one gets excited about an accomplishment important things get overlooked.

 

Reloading can be an easy and great way of adding to the shooting experience, but safety is foremost.  Your working with controlled explosions in the palm of your hand. Be careful, be safe, and enjoy.  Remember there are no stupid questions when beginning to learn how to reload.

 

Here is a load that I have used before, provided for informational purposes only.

230 RNFMJ

4.6 gr IMR700x

1.25 OAL

.471 Crimp

DOBA target load

YMMV

[AdamM 42]

I was thinking about popin out my barrel and using that but IDK, just didn't feel like it. I don't think I really need one because according to Lee the crimp die has one built in.

 

Actually I think you are much better off using the barrel if you can remove it and check.  I have a Dillion chamber check for 45 ACP and I found while the rounds might feel just fine in that, it may not fit in the actual barrel.  The reason is that the chamber check blocks do not have rifling in them.  Different manufacturers start the rifling at different places and may have a easy or sharp start, closer to the chamber or further.  When I first started, I found that the rounds were getting stuck in the rifling and was hard to "unload" the gun when you had to "unload and show clear" to get that last chambered round out.  The bullet itself had a tiny bit too much OAL and wedged in the rifling.  After I shortened it slightly, it was perfect.

[T Bill 649]

Chamber check gauges are made to SAAMI spec sizes.  If cartridge drops in and out the the gauge easily and the bullet head is below the bottom of the gauge, it should be GTG.  Use one all the time on auto feed cartridges, never have a feed problem with any of the firearms that use them.

[carl_g 568]

Chamber check gauges are made to SAAMI spec sizes. If cartridge drops in and out the the gauge easily and the bullet head is below the bottom of the gauge, it should be GTG. Use one all the time on auto feed cartridges, never have a feed problem with any of the firearms that use them.

I got the dillon ones for both 223 and 9mm. I check every round.

[louu 399]

Congrats on shooting your first reloads!

 

Cranking out a few rounds when you first start reloading is fun and patience is abundant. Once you get the hang of things, you start to look for ways to become much more efficient so that you can start knocking out a few boxes of ammo in less time. When that happens, you will most likely say goodbye to the hand primer, fill the turret with all four dies and add a few more things to your reloading bench.

 

Consider the following for the next stage of upgrades:

 

1. Lee pro auto disk - screws on top of your flaring die.

 

2. Lee adjustable charge bar  - gives you more control than the disks

 

3. Lee safety primer feed - prime your brass on the downstroke after they're sized / deprimed. 

 

Nikos

Thanks Nikos, I don't think ill ever ditch the hand primer though, its one of my favorite parts (yeah I'm weird) it gives me a chance to inspect all the cases and make sure I don't end up with a high primer before I charge it.

 

Do you or anyone else know it IMR 700X meters well through the charge bar and pro auto disk?

Its considered a flake powder right???

 

I seen a video on Youtube of a guy saying that graphite spray on the inside of the hopper and the disks or charge bar gives you perfect measures every time. Any comments on that?

[louu 399]

Pick up that brass and learn the signs of overpressure.  I'm sure you don't have any with target loads, but get in the habit of checking new loads.  Can't stress this enough.  Only takes one mistake to change for a lifetime of pain or worse.  Checking brass for case/neck splits, blown primers, blown out bases are part of it too!  When one gets excited about an accomplishment important things get overlooked.

 

Reloading can be an easy and great way of adding to the shooting experience, but safety is foremost.  Your working with controlled explosions in the palm of your hand. Be careful, be safe, and enjoy.  Remember there are no stupid questions when beginning to learn how to reload.

 

Here is a load that I have used before, provided for informational purposes only.

230 RNFMJ

4.6 gr IMR700x

1.25 OAL

.471 Crimp

DOBA target load

YMMV

Thanks again T Bill,

I'm a big time brass picker upper lol. I love recycling. Whenever I see someone at the range getting ready to throw out their once fired brass I always ask if I can have it.

 

I checked most of this brass before I reloaded it, the case length were all with in .001 of about ten factory rounds I measured. That was after I resized them.

 

What do you mean by target load?

 

I also want to ask you how you came up with that load. I know that's well in the safe range but I understand that if you decrease OAL your also decreasing the CC's and increasing pressure. Is there some complicated formula to figure out your pressure?

I read through the chapter on pressure but it was a little hard for me to understand.

I kinda got the impression (and Lee also says in there) that its not really necessary for a beginner to understand it.

[T Bill 649]

Target load is one that gets the bullet to the target as accurately as possible.  Speed is not the issue here accuracy is.  Bullseye shooters are famous for developing loads that get them to their target accurately with the least amount of powder.  This is not true in IDPA and USPSA.  They have minimums where bullet weight and speed must meet requirements (Power Factor). 

 

This load was developed for a Colt Gold Cup National Match 1911.  Bullet seat depth will effect CUP pressure. Worked up slow and looking for a few factors. Accuracy, no pressure indications, cycles smoothly are tops.  Cartridge OAL that are near SAAMI specs can be troublesome on some pistols.  Also by seating the bullet on top of the charge can give you greater accuracy by insuring consistent and complete powder ignition.

[louu 399]

Ah ha, makes sense lol.

I was just reading the rules for USPSA trying to figure out what I need to qualify for heavy and I couldn't find it in plain English. I just want to know whats the min FPS for a 230g bullet for heavy. In one of the parts on there it kinda looked like they don't factor in the fact that some powders don't need as much of a charge as others to get the same FPS. I'm going to just go to my first one (as soon as it gets a little warmer) and just learn it all there.

 

Do you shoot USPSA? Ill probably be heading up there this summer for some matches.

 

The last part is pretty cool, its just like a compression ratio in an engine.

 

 

I went to the range yesterday and loaded one factory Remington round and one of mine at 4.4 on top of that, just shooting two rounds at a time at two different targets next to each other. I did notice that my rounds feel a tiny bit smoother and just a hair less kick. I think I was a little more accurate with my rounds too. I cant really say to much on accuracy though because I'm having a little trouble with my sights and I was FREEZING! I was shooting at about 60 feet.

[jvheitz 5]

To calculate power factor:

(bullet weight * velocity)/1000

 

Major PF is 165, so to make major with a 230gr bullet, you would need velocity to be no lower than 720 fps.

 

(230 * 720) / 1000 = 165.6, which would round to 165 (bare minimum for major)

I would NOT try to make 165, best to try for ~170 (give or take).  Best not to skirt the line because there are a lot of environmental factors that can influence velocity, give yourself some room to be safe.

[T Bill 649]

Used to shoot USPSA back in the 90's.  Been thinking about it again but something always gets in the way. 

 

There are stickies on this board to give  you backround.

[louu 399]

To calculate power factor:

(bullet weight * velocity)/1000

 

Major PF is 165, so to make major with a 230gr bullet, you would need velocity to be no lower than 720 fps.

 

(230 * 720) / 1000 = 165.6, which would round to 165 (bare minimum for major)

I would NOT try to make 165, best to try for ~170 (give or take).  Best not to skirt the line because there are a lot of environmental factors that can influence velocity, give yourself some room to be safe.

 

Thanks Jv, I should be good for that.

Used to shoot USPSA back in the 90's.  Been thinking about it again but something always gets in the way. 

 

There are stickies on this board to give  you backround.

The stickies on here are awesome, I watched all the videos and read all of them. Gona do some brushing up on them again before I go to one.

[HuntingPaper 62]

Thanks Jv, I should be good for that.

The stickies on here are awesome, I watched all the videos and read all of them. Gona do some brushing up on them again before I go to one.

Let me know when you want to go to one and I have a single stack rig that you are welcome to use. Next one is February 23rd at Old Bridge and you have to sign up on line the previous Tuesday www.obcats.com

[louu 399]

Thanks Hunt, I'm going to have to sit that one out though because I'm working nights everyday till the end of the month. But I should be going to the next one in march.

[louu 399]

 

Got my Pro auto disk and charge bar set up today.

It works pretty good. I like the disks better than the charge bar. Loaded up 15 rounds with Clays at 4 grains with a 1.250 OAL. Didnt have much time because I had to get to work. I need to get to the range so I can do some testing.

[10X 3,296]

Yep, you're new at it all right.  That's the tidiest reloading bench I've ever seen.  :-)

 

Don't let those Quad posters distract you while you are loading; it's possible to double charge, sometimes triple charge, most pistol loads.

 

(seriously--nice setup)

[louu 399]

Haha, thanks Ten, I'm kinda a neat freak in my house but the garage is organized chaos.

[carl_g 568]

 

Got my Pro auto disk and charge bar set up today.

It works pretty good. I like the disks better than the charge bar. Loaded up 15 rounds with Clays at 4 grains with a 1.250 OAL. Didnt have much time because I had to get to work. I need to get to the range so I can do some testing.

NIce! I run a separate turret and pro auto disk for both 9mm and .223. I'll be ordering another one for .45 soon. If you decide to use the auto prime system you are going to need a spacer in the powder charge die for clearance.

[HuntingPaper 62]

I've been loading with that setup for 3 years and over 20k rounds with turrets for 45acp, 9mm, 40s&w, 38spl, 223 and 300blk and I'm very happy with it.