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Tallday

old browning A5 light 12 or new 1100, beretta a300, lion

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In need of my first semiautomatic shotgun on a 400 to 650 budget. I have always liked the A5 and can get a good shooter for under 500. The others mentioned are about that price range some a bit more. I plan on hunting birds and target clays with it may even deer if I can. Any suggestions from you guys and gals with some experience with any of them would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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I have a lightly used Remington 11-87 w/ 28" VR Field barrel (Mod choke) and an 18.5" Police barrel I'll let go of for $650

thanks for the opportunity but I am not into the 11-87.

 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Given your planned use, why not get a pump and get more for your money?

i have a pump and want an semi at this point. I am leaning towards the A5 but and looking for any input.

 

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Pick the one that fits you best, and then pick the one that can be accessorized the best for your intended hunting purposes. The A-5 (or cheaper Savage or Remington) is a great gun, but not the lightest recoiling and some find them temperamental with some loads if switching from light clays loads to heavy hunting loads. (Often it's user-error and just a matter of switching the friction rings around in the recoil mechanism.) If you are going to shoot slugs, the A-5 is tough to scope, and specialized slug barrels aren't cheap, and not as easy to find anymore.

 

A used 1100 would be a better option vs. new, and there are after-market parts galore for it.

 

The Beretta is a nice gun, light to carry for upland birds, but check for the same options as an A-5: deer barrel for slugs and scoping it if you prefer.   

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Pick the one that fits you best, and then pick the one that can be accessorized the best for your intended hunting purposes. The A-5 (or cheaper Savage or Remington) is a great gun, but not the lightest recoiling and some find them temperamental with some loads if switching from light clays loads to heavy hunting loads. (Often it's user-error and just a matter of switching the friction rings around in the recoil mechanism.) If you are going to shoot slugs, the A-5 is tough to scope, and specialized slug barrels aren't cheap, and not as easy to find anymore.

 

A used 1100 would be a better option vs. new, and there are after-market parts galore for it.

 

The Beretta is a nice gun, light to carry for upland birds, but check for the same options as an A-5: deer barrel for slugs and scoping it if you prefer.

great points so I guess it would be down to the used 1100 or A5.... but man that old browning A5 just has a second kind of cool going for it. It's tuff..

 

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You may want to hunt for a used Browning gold, may be a little difficult finding one in that price range though. But better chamber options 2-3/4", 3", 3-1/2 is nice when you want it. I have the Browning Maxus awesome gun but even used is going to be more than double what your looking to spend. I would probably go with an A5 myself over an 1100. I had my fill of bad o-rings with Remingtons and won't buy anymore.

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i think that many together is uncool and you should sell me one!!! Lol

 

 

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Those were lost in Hurricane Sandy.

 

 

The early Belgium twenty's and Sweet-Sixteen's make very nice field guns. I think they balance and handle the best. The Light Twelve is a very nice gun. I wish I had one. The Miroku A-5's are nice but they are a tad heavier than their Belgium counterparts.

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Those were lost in Hurricane Sandy.

 

 

The early Belgium twenty's and Sweet-Sixteen's make very nice field guns. I think they balance and handle the best. The Light Twelve is a very nice gun. I wish I had one. The Miroku A-5's are nice but they are a tad heavier than their Belgium counterparts.

sorry to here you lost them in sandy.. Thank you for the insite on types of A5's

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Note: The advantage the Miroku A-5's have is that in1983 they offered their barrels with standard Invector choke tubes, and these are also steel-shot compatible.

that's great to know.. do you know if the Japanese version accepts browning barrels?

 

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that's great to know.. do you know if the Japanese version accepts browning barrels?

 

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Miroku and Belgium barrels are interchangeable.

http://www.browning.com/customerservice/qna/detail.asp?id=128

 

Some more info -

 

Auto-5 production dates:

  • Belgium's = 1903-1976
  • Miroku's = 1976-1998

Belgium distinctions:

  • Early A-5's had straight stocks
  • Super-Lightweight models were available to the European market (aluminum utilized in frame)
  • Model offerings consisted of Lightweight (2 3/4") & Magnum (3") offered in 20 ga. & 12 ga. 16 ga. available in Standard weight or lightweight (Sweet-Sixteen)   
  • Different grades of engraving offered
  • Round knob pistol grips to 1967
  • Flat knob pistol grips began in 1967
  • Barrel styles offered in matted rib, vent-rib or solid rib with fixed chokes.

Miroku distinctions:

  • Flat knob pistol grips in 1976 then back to round knob pistol grips in their final years
  • Barrel style - vent-rib.
  • Models: Light-Twenty, Sweet-Sixteen, Magnum-Twenty, Light-Twelve and Magnum-Twelve available. 

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just picked up an a5 with two barrels one modified one full for 600. looks like it was refinished. will post pics when I figure out how to. I am also having a hard time figuring out the serial1 # OG 8112

 

I saw that gun was for sale on NJH last month. That SN seems correct from what I see in those pictures that were posted. MY guess would be that "0" denotes 1960 as the build date and "G" is the "Lightweight" designation. The pictures that were posted on the site shows screws in the frame on the underside of the sides of the frame. Those were later changed to roll pins in the early 60's, so 1960 may be correct for the build date. (For a correct assessment; contact Browning.) Yes, it was refinished and has new wood on it, but you still have a very functional shotgun. Another barrel alone is $250-$300 these days. Enjoy your purchase! 

 

Original Light Twelve barrels will have three lightening holes drilled in the barrel ring that fits over the magazine tube.

 

Here's a disassembly guide if you ever need one:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/images/BROWNINGA5DISASSEMBLY.pdf

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I saw that gun was for sale on NJH last month. That SN seems correct from what I see in those pictures that were posted. MY guess would be that "0" denotes 1960 as the build date and "G" is the "Lightweight" designation. The pictures that were posted on the site shows screws in the frame on the underside of the sides of the frame. Those were later changed to roll pins in the early 60's, so 1960 may be correct for the build date. (For a correct assessment; contact Browning.) Yes, it was refinished and has new wood on it, but you still have a very functional shotgun. Another barrel alone is $250-$300 these days. Enjoy your purchase!

 

Original Light Twelve barrels will have three lightening holes drilled in the barrel ring that fits over the magazine tube.

 

Here's a disassembly guide if you ever need one:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/images/BROWNINGA5DISASSEMBLY.pdf

thanks parker.. looks like from what I found is that I have one improved modified and one modified barrel. All the same to me all I need is to find a full and slug barrel and I can use it for everything.

 

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So I took it out yesterday for the first time. It is a dream to shoot. I only have issues with the second barrel. When I use the original it functions perfect. With the second looks like a newer barrel I am having failure to feed problem. I would have to push on the follower to get the shell to get past the cartage stop and bolt release. I know it's something with the way the second barrel is sitting in the receiver but can't figure were it's causing the hang up.

Any suggestions?

 

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Is the second barrel a Japanese barrel?

Is it chambered for 2 3/4" or 3" shells?

Does the barrel move freely inside the forearm when it cycles to the rear or does it bind/rub the inside of the forearm anywhere?

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Is the second barrel a Japanese barrel?

Is it chambered for 2 3/4" or 3" shells?

Does the barrel move freely inside the forearm when it cycles to the rear or does it bind/rub the inside of the forearm anywhere?

it's also a belgum barrel. . It functions fine when loaded one at a time. And sometimes it will feed a second round. I think it's newer the the original barrel because of the lack of lighting holes in the part that rides the magazine tube. Also, with the original barrel and dummy rounds I can get the gun to cycle perfectly as it should. With the second barrel I have the same issues of feeding with the dummy rounds as I do with live fire. The second barrel moves freely when firing just locked back the bolt then the next round will peek out of the magazine and need a push on the follower to get past the stop and trigger the bolt to go forward and chamber the round. It's hard to explain in words I will try to make a video this weekend and post it somehow.

Thanks

 

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Q: Can you "speed-load" a round into the chamber from the magazine with the suspect barrel?

 

Try these tests:

A: Lock the bolt back, push a round into the magazine; let it go. Does it whisk itself into the chamber effortlessly?

B: Put a round in the magazine with the bolt closed, engage the magazine cutoff, lock the bolt rearward, disengage the magazine cut-off. Doe the round chamber effortlessly?) 

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I think I have it working with both barrels now.. I did some polishing on the barrel extension of the 'second" newer barrel and  sat with 3 dummy rounds and feed and cycles the action about 200 times and now its much better. guess it just needed a little breaking in to the action.

 

Thanks for the help and information i will enjoy this A5.

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