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Rob0115

What to do after wet tumbling

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I'm stainless pin tumbling my brass.  I add a bit of dish detergent and a bit of Lemme shine to the mix and the brass comes out very clean, but not highly polished.  What's your recipe for stainless tumbling and for those of you that polish after tumbling what's your method?  I'd like to get my brass shiny new before reloading and it just ain't getting there.  

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After wet tumbling, I rinse the brass in cold water to get any residual lemon shine / dish detergent off. I then spread the brass out on a towel on a lunch tray. Using the sneaker rack that goes in the clothes dryer I place the lunch tray in the dryer for about 30 minutes on medium heat to dry off the brass.

 

If you really need to have that brass super shiny, you could then use corn cob media in a vibratory tumbler.

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Though I use ceramic media instead of pins:

* Burnishing solution - Strat-O-Sheen concentrated powder, mixed 3oz to 1 gallon water

http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Strat-O-Sheen-Powder-Burnishing-Compound-5-lbs/3390175

* Squirt of Dawn Ultra dish washing liquid

Black powder cases are usually in the rotary to be cleaned for 1-2 hours only.  Smokeless cases only usually for an hour.  Then rinse in hot water

Then I dry the brand new looking brass in under 2 minutes:

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7653.msg56565  (see picture of cleaned brass in the post)

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Try tumbling them for a longer period of time.  I go 3 to 3 1/2 hours to get them very bright.

 

What I've found though is that the finish gets marred during the loading and then storage.  The case lube must attract grime and so they aren't as shiny as when I started.

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Though I use ceramic media instead of pins:

* Burnishing solution - Strat-O-Sheen concentrated powder, mixed 3oz to 1 gallon water

http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Strat-O-Sheen-Powder-Burnishing-Compound-5-lbs/3390175

* Squirt of Dawn Ultra dish washing liquid

Black powder cases are usually in the rotary to be cleaned for 1-2 hours only.  Smokeless cases only usually for an hour.  Then rinse in hot water

Then I dry the brand new looking brass in under 2 minutes:

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7653.msg56565  (see picture of cleaned brass in the post)

I'm going to try this.

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Try tumbling them for a longer period of time.  I go 3 to 3 1/2 hours to get them very bright.

 

What I've found though is that the finish gets marred during the loading and then storage.  The case lube must attract grime and so they aren't as shiny as when I started.

from what i have read, if you are using carbide dies there is no need for the case lube.

i have been loading .40 on the xl650 with 0 issues.

i don't deprime on the machine and my loaded rounds are as shiny as when they came out of the tumbler.

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from what i have read, if you are using carbide dies there is no need for the case lube.

i have been loading .40 on the xl650 with 0 issues.

i don't deprime on the machine and my loaded rounds are as shiny as when they came out of the tumbler.

You also don't require lube to spank one out yet it's way better if you do. Smoother operation and less wear and tear on your arm and moving parts.

 

The same tbing follows thru for reloading. 40 also reloads nicely. 9mm is a little rougher. For a very small cost increase and a nice performance gain it just makes sense. I've seen a lot of people start using lube after never using it and continue to use it. I haven't seen people who use it stop using it.

 

Hornady one shot case lube. I dump brass in Tupperware, spray some in, shake it up, when it's dry I load it up. Takes 20 seconds to dry.

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