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Inherited reloading equipment.. Nowhere to start.

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A few questions about trimmers...

 

I have an LE Wilson case trimmer as shown above. I have case holders for .30-06, 44 Mag, 30-30, 22-250, and 38spl. I need case holders for 223, 45, 30 carb, 458 winmag, and 308 in order of importantce. Shell holders are about $12 a piece on Midway. Is it worth buying $60 in case holders or should I buy a new trimmer? 

 

Also, where is a good place to buy powder and primers in store in the Poke-in-the-nose and North Jersey? I was told dunks wasn't bad on price for powder. I know they're scalpers otherwise.

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While Dunks normally have a decent selection (mostly one pounders of rifle lately) either at the Stroudsburg or West End stores prices are up there.  Not many places in the Poke in the nose to pick it up.  T&T near Easton has better prices but you have to be sure he's in.  He's open Saturdays if he's not at a show or Monday-Wednesdays evenings.  Otherwise you travel out towards Cabelas (Shylas or Trop) or hit up the bigger Eagle Arms gun shows (Greater Phila or Split Rock).

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I'm in need of a scale. I was set on a $35 Hornady digital, but I read that they're a POS. I have a prehistoric Redding that doesn't work well. If I send it to Redding, will it be as reliable as a modern scale?

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I'll be shopping a gun show for primers and coal for 223 and 30 carbine. Suggestions? I was planning on looking in my reloading manual but I'm not sure whats most available/best etc.

 

Primers I was going to buy the first quality brand small rifle primers for under $30 i found.

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I am about to start loading cases.

 

I have two powder measures. A Hornady/Pacific Deluxe and an oldd Lyman #55. Which one do I want to use? Can they both be used for rifle and pistol? Are there any good links for the Hornady, because I can only find Lock and Load instruction manuals. Can't figure out the micrometer.

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I am about to start loading cases.

 

I have two powder measures. A Hornady/Pacific Deluxe and an oldd Lyman #55. Which one do I want to use? Can they both be used for rifle and pistol? Are there any good links for the Hornady, because I can only find Lock and Load instruction manuals. Can't figure out the micrometer.

 

Lyman Ideal #55 has been an industry standard forever.

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So I loaded my first round.

 

Playing around with my dies, I think they're not taper crimp. They are 1970 RCBS 45acp dies and trying to set a roll crimp I accidentally loaded a round too short. 230gr FMJ at 1.259 OAL. Maximum OAL is 1.270 in my sierra book and my old lyman book says 1.275. Is this safe to shoot? It is 4.3gr of bullseye.

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Looks good to me.  230FMJ COAL 1.259 and 4.3 BE is not a hammer load by any means.  Hornady 9th has 230LRN at 1.21 and starting load of 4.4 BE.  Just don't roll crimp or taper crimp to hard, round needs case mouth for head spacing.  Just enough to eliminate the case bell.  Older dies will have a roll crimp feature beyond the taper that is not needed for this type of round.  Used for other 45 caliber rimmed cartridges.

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My next endeavor is loading a plated round.

 

I loaded a box of 50 rounds, 4.3gr of bullseye with a factory crimp and a COAL of 1.265 on a 230 FMJ. The 4.3gr gives me a little under 800 FPS. My sierra book lists 5.2gr max for IIRC 900fps, so I would like to start loading around 4.7 for a higher velocity load while still under max pressure.

 

Once my FMJs run out I plan on buying 230 RN plated. Any suggestions for data? Some say use lead data, others say use mild jacketed data and keep under 1200 fps. Is there a good source of published data for 850ish fps plated bullets?

 

Also, what feeds better? Shorter rounds or longer? My sierra and lyman books do not list cartridge lengths other than maximum length. I am aware of pressure increases with longer rounds.

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Also, what feeds better? Shorter rounds or longer? My sierra and lyman books do not list cartridge lengths other than maximum length. I am aware of pressure increases with longer rounds.

This is true for rifle but the opposite for strait walled pistol ammo.

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A few questions about trimmers...

 

I have an LE Wilson case trimmer as shown above. I have case holders for .30-06, 44 Mag, 30-30, 22-250, and 38spl. I need case holders for 223, 45, 30 carb, 458 winmag, and 308 in order of importantce. Shell holders are about $12 a piece on Midway. Is it worth buying $60 in case holders or should I buy a new trimmer? 

 

Also, where is a good place to buy powder and primers in store in the Poke-in-the-nose and North Jersey? I was told dunks wasn't bad on price for powder. I know they're scalpers otherwise.

 

LE Wilson stuff is the cats ass.

I use a 50yo case trimmer hooked up to a cordless screw driver

And their case gauges are the last word from God!

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Army issue 230FMJ is full power at 885FPS. That's a PF of 203. Head is .68 long and COAL is  1.275. That's known as 'hardball' loads. Nobody I know shoots 230FMJ much over 170-175 PF or about 775 FPS unless shooting hardball matches which I have not seen in years. Too much wear and tear on the gun. Have you chronographed your loads?

 

Too fast a speed or too much crimp causes plating separation with plated bullets. Some are switching to coated, less problems overall. Most manufacturers of plated say lead load data or mid range jacketed speeds. I would stick to lead speeds and reap the benefit of the plating on barrel fouling. Diameter will make a difference also. Some prefer .451 over .452. This will change the pressure curve also.

 

Ibejiheads is a local vendor used by a lot on the local uspsa/idpa circuit.  www.ibejiheads.com

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I'm debating between Bayou coated bullets and xtreme plated. I would like to load two rounds, a higher pressure that emulates a self defense round (230gr and 850-900 fps) and a lower pressure for plinking. Only reason I want the high pressure stuff is so my dad can practice without burning his carry ammo.

 

I like the thought of a lot of neck tension, but I think that will strip plating. I like not crimping. I read the Bayou is tough stuff.

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