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Switching compensators

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How hard is it to have a welded comp removed and replaced by another one and does anyone know where it can be done safely and legally (especially in the western part of the state or eastern PA about at the Rte 78 area)?

 

Is there any danger to the gun itself like I imagine there would be?

 

While I like my Battlecomp, a friend has a Wheaton that is way better IMO. Stays dead on target and tames recoil better. Does anyone else have a comp they are in love with?

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SOF, Steve at Monmouth Arms welded my compensator and ground down my bayonet lug.  I can inquire with him how practical it is to remove one and what risks, if any, there are.

 

Maybe it's time to just build a AR? :)

 

Maybe sell the one you have and start from scratch on a new one.  You've had some time with the platform and have a general idea with what you like/don't like.

 

Wheaton Deployment Comp:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5jGyFpOBgs

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Who is ADCO?

Nick, kinda far from here, but if I made the hike, would you be able to do it while I wait? Oh and put the new one on.

Glen, you're the guy who starteed all this with your Wheaton. Must be related to the devil! Long range varmint or DMR is this winters' plan.

Cheko, have you shot Glen's AR? the comp is amazing. It kicks like a 22lr.and stays right on the target.

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www.adcofirearms.com is a gunsmith in Sylvannia, Ohio know for his work on AR type firearms.  Reasonably priced with fast turnaround.  High quality work with very professional attitude.  Used by many. 

 

Nick is correct here also, and ADCO will only remove comps not silver soldered.

 

A qualified answer would require more info.  Manufacturer, barrel type and age, number of rounds down the pipe, any knowledge of how comp was attached, etc. 

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It may but i wouldn't be cutting off a $200 comp that's a pretty proven winner. Not saying the other one doesn't work. I'd buy a new barrel to use. Which would probably turn into a new upper. And what's an upper without a lower?

 

 

I guess what I'm saying is buy a new rifle.

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

 

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There's bunches of videos on YouTube on how to do this yourself if the device is pinned and welded.  It's not complicated but there is some risk of damaging the threads.  There is little margin for error and you only get one shot at doing it right..  If it's soldered or the bbl is less than 16" with a fully welded seam joining the device to the bbl, then you should just forget about it and buy/build a new upper.

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I guess what I'm saying is BUILD a new rifle.

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

With the way prices have come done I would start building one. Wait for the sales which are coming and get the parts you want.

 

Monmouth Arms has Anderson lowers for about $75 out the door. I've seen similar deals online but you have to take in account shipping, ffl transfer fee, etc.

 

MidWestPX had a nice combo deal on a billet lower, ALG ACT trigger and one or two other items for $200.

 

The Wheaton Deployment Comp is $120 (I think).

 

Wait for a Black Friday sale on a complete upper or build your own.

 

You could build a nice rifle for $700-800, sell your old one for about what you purchased it for and buy about 1k rounds of 5.56 with the money you "saved". :)

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It's a Daniel Defense with a 16", 1:7 barrel. I bought it on the forum second hand, so I'm not sure as to the method of attachment but was simply told it was welded. I use it strictly at the range anywhere from 25-100 yards although I'd love to find a convenient place to get out further. There's no plans to compete at any run and gun or benchmark type stuff, it's strictly a way to get out there and relax for a bit while trying to get better at something I'm quite mediocre at. From what you guys are saying it looks like I'll leave it as is and go with the winter project of a new upper in a couple of months, but I have no plans to sell this one. This just seemeed like an easy inexpensive improvement of a really good gun.

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When you say you want to improve, what exactly do you think a new comp will add for you. I'd sink the money into a better trigger and would bet you see a bigger difference. With that said only shooting/training will really make you better.

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Personally I would keep the Battlecomp on the rifle rather than spending $$ and time of something that isn't going to significantly improve anything.

Just my $.02

I agree. But after all, it's his money, his hobby.

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Improvment means the gun stays right on target just like my 22 does, but it sounds like no one thinks it's worth it. Of course I'll do what appeals most to me, but more than anything wanted to know about risk to the gun if I went ahead. I am a tinkerer by nature anyhow so the trigger is already a Geiselle.

Glen and I  shot the two ARs side by side and independently felt that his gun recoiled truer than mine which showed a bit of deflection to the left. Nothing dramatic but noticable when one went A-B with them. So if it wasn't any big deal to have it done, why not?

As far as shooting more that's the real goal for all my guns even though I average once a week now. I might have to retire to get too much more in right now.

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Looking at the Wheaton, I'd be concerned about longevity. There is very little meat at the top, and that generally means faster baffle erosion.

 

It's layout is following a fairly successful formula, the dynamic resistance brake is similar in a smaller package with a bit more beef at the top, and cheaper.

 

 

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Looking at the Wheaton, I'd be concerned about longevity. There is very little meat at the top, and that generally means faster baffle erosion.

 

It's layout is following a fairly successful formula, the dynamic resistance brake is similar in a smaller package with a bit more beef at the top, and cheaper.

Just the devil's advocate as always, by the time you wear the baffle you would have probably wiped out the barrel.

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Just the devil's advocate as always, by the time you wear the baffle you would have probably wiped out the barrel.

 

Depends on the barrel, your loads, and what you consider sufficient accuracy. Not everyone tosses a barrel when it ceases to shoot minute of gnat ass. Baffle erosion can also cause the comp to become less effective.  

 

I know there are a number of 3 gunning peeps who loved the dreadnought F2 except that it rapidly had the adopters of it turn on them because they started failing due to baffle erosion. The F2 not only got thing, but had square corner, which didn't help. Firebird precision put in a replaceable initial baffle face because they didn't like the experience they had with erosion in other comps. Nordic components tactical comp moved to a smaller hole through it.  I suspect because of issues of erosion and deformation. I have one of the early ones. It is starting to erode, and the barrel on that gun is nowhere near shot out. IT was also pretty easy to start deforming it with installation force. 

 

My main reason for offering the alternative was that the $125 price was a bit high. I'm assuming it was the deployment comp because they charge more for that one. It also tends to be out of stock. $85 for a very similar design on something that might wear out might be more attractive. The vg6 precision gamma 5.56 also uses a similar design, but has a battle like comp mesh up top rather than popple holes like the dynamic resistance brake or the wheaton deployment. Now you are talking even thinner pieces of metal at the top of the baffle. So despite being $85 too, I didn't bother mentioning it. 

 

The full size wheaton comp at $99 is reasonably competitive on price though and seems to be ins stock most of the time. 

 

As the computational fluid dynamic nerds start reviewing the existing comps, it's increasingly looking like there is not a lot of benefit to a third baffle and that comps that use a two or more baffle design, make the baffles large for the comp diameter, and create more side venting to the top rather than the bottom either through vectoring or having a narrower piece of metal at the top than the bottom, and have some sort of upward venting like popple holes or a high pressure chamber with top vents, tend to all encompass the majority of the benefits. If your comp is pinned, avoiding the high pressure chamber is better as it gives you at least some access to carbon build up on the crown. 

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