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Agrhhh! Unbelieveable! My P226 failing me???

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I was at an outdoor range, yesterday with my 2A mentor. I loaded up my P226 (it's been a while since I've shot it)  with some AE 147gr flat heads. 

 

"Goin' Hot..,"  and then.... "Click...."  nothing..... 

 

I wait to ensure it wasn't a hang fire, then cleared the weapon and ejected the round.  Sure enough there was a light depression in the primer.  I tried again, and "click...." nothing... 

 

My mentor loaned me some standard AE 115Gr round nose. I loaded up two of those. And,  lo and behold,  they fire without issue! Then I tried some of my Hornady "Critical Duty" rounds.  First round.... BANG!   No problem.  2nd round..... ."click......"  Ruh-Roh.....  :shok:  As before, a light depression in the primer. One more time with Hornady and..... "click....."  nothing!  :mad:  I try the flat heads in my Shield, and "BANG....BANG...BANG..." all fires, no issues.

 

So, I'm thinking, maybe a "sticky firing pin" in the P226?  Perhaps a more detailed cleaning is in order?  Or is this something that may require a bit of smithing? 

FTR, my P226 is the only one of my inventory that I cleaned initially with "Froglube."  My mentor has soured quite a bit on FrogLube, now. The other of my inventory has been cleaned with Hoppes 9 and Hoppes std. oil, along with gun grease for the rails.

 

Anyway, all help truly appreciated, since I have to use this gun later this month for my MAG-40 class. If I'm going to need smithing, I need to know ASAP. I also need to find a good gunsmith that does P226's in the Gainesville FL area.

 

Thanks much all.  :)

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Are you the original owner of this 226? The reason I ask is due to the fact that the only ammo that I have had light strikes on with my 226 was AE. And that only happened after changing my mainspring to A 17 Lb spring.

 

I still have the 17 Lb spring in it but I dont use AE ammo. No light strikes with anything else.

 

Also you could hit the slide good with some gun scrubber making sure to blow it dry with compressed air after.

 

I detail strip my Sigs twice A year.(not really needed, but I do)

I would think this would get you back to being happy with that P226.

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i doubt froglube was the issue.

 

 

tell us more about the sig.  what model is it, what mods does it have, how many rounds have you shot through it.  change anything (even as simple as the grip?)

 

 

Are you the original owner of this 226? The reason I ask is due to the fact that the only ammo that I have had light strikes on with my 226 was AE. And that only happened after changing my mainspring to A 17 Lb spring.

 

I still have the 17 Lb spring in it but I dont use AE ammo. No light strikes with anything else.

 

Also you could hit the slide good with some gun scrubber making sure to blow it dry with compressed air after.

 

I detail strip my Sigs twice A year.(not really needed, but I do)

I would think this would get you back to being happy with that P226.

 

It is a standard P226 (E26R-9-BSS), with no mods.  Fired roughly ~ 1000 rounds  so far, most of it being AE 115 or 147 flat heads, and a small bit of Hornady Critical Duty.  I am the original owner for almost 1 year (in December).  Cleaned twice with FrogLube, oiled with Hoppes 9 oil, and slides lightly greased with "Shooter's Choice" All weather High Tech Grease.

 

I do note that I hadn't shot it almost a month or two, and this was the first time I had shot it "outdoors" in several months.

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Check that your firing pin is not chipped and that it travels easilly. I don't have 226, but I just checked my 239 on the assumption that they would be similar.

 

Take the slide off, remove the barrel and spring assembly. You will need a third hand or a vise of some sort, because what you need to do is depress the firing pin safety (semi circle button on the underside of the slide) and then while holding that down press the firing pin forward from the rear. It should move easily with not much resistance. Look at the firing pin tip when protruding, make sure it is not chipped.

 

The other thing you should check is that when using the problem ammo that gun is fully in battery and not somehow staying a bit open and the firing pin not quite reaching the primer.

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Check that your firing pin is not chipped and that it travels easilly. I don't have 226, but I just checked my 239 on the assumption that they would be similar.

 

Take the slide off, remove the barrel and spring assembly. You will need a third hand or a vise of some sort, because what you need to do is depress the firing pin safety (semi circle button on the underside of the slide) and then while holding that down press the firing pin forward from the rear. It should move easily with not much resistance. Look at the firing pin tip when protruding, make sure it is not chipped.

 

The other thing you should check is that when using the problem ammo that gun is fully in battery and not somehow staying a bit open and the firing pin not quite reaching the primer.

 

 

Yep A good cleaning and shoot that firing pin area with some gunscrubber. Apply A light coat of grease on the internals. Then go shoot it.

 

OK, a good detail cleaning it is... and a pin check. Although I'm not sure what a "good vs. chipped" pin looks.like. Are there pics anywhere?

 

Can I use Hoppes 9 solvent instead of Gunscrubber?  I'd have to order some, otherwise...

Thanks.

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The firing pin tip should be smooth and rounded. If you see any edges, uneven surfaces, etc you may have found your problem.

 

Gun scrubber is spray on/in cleaner that lets you get pressured cleaning agents in hard to reach places. It is not that different then break cleaner spray, but you should have some Gunscrubber in your inventory anyway. Just make sure you don't touch plastic with it, it can screw it up so remove your grip panels whenever you apply it to the lower half.

 

Also check that your extractor is clean and moving freely, if it doesn't it could create a out of battery condition depending on the brass of different brands.

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If you are going to pull the firing pin yes. You dont want any residue left in the firing pin channel

 

I say Gun Scrubber, BUT, I use CFC free brake Clean myself. Lot cheaper and readily available at walmart and any parts store.

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If all else fails and you're willing to part with the 226 for a little while, call their support and get an RMA. Their turnaround for me the last time I used them was less then 7 days.

 

Last resort, I'm afraid.  I need it by month end for my MAG-40 class. If it truly is a 7 day turnaround, shipment to delivery, that might be OK. I'll call and ask...

 

But I'd have to learn all about the shipment rules, etc.  Not sure I have the time, etc. or if I need to use NJ FFLs, etc. (I'll be in Florida temporarily)...

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When I did it, they sent me a pre-paid shipping label. Was told to box up the original case it came with with plenty of packing material and drop it off at a UPS hub. Went to the hub, told them it was a firearm, dropped it off and left. When it came back, I got a call from the UPS hub, I went over, picked it up and took it home.

 

Serch this forum, there plenty of threads discussing this. Be careful, you'll see answers from people that overthink this process.

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#1 thing to try in this instance is a thorough cleaning including removal of the firing pin and ensuring that it is in good, undamaged condition, and that the firing pin channel is free of debris. 

 

When I picked up my baby eagle, the thing had misfires out the hoo-ha. On the verge of sending it back, I finally found the bit of chip from machining somehting on the gun that had gotten beaten into a corner of the firing pin channel by the firing pin. Once removed, it ran like a top. 

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Just a note:

One of frog lube's properties is that it displaces petroleum based products. Meaning that if you treated it with F.L. and then applied oil/grease, the F.L. will push the oil right off the parts you put it on.

 

Don't know of that has anything to do with the light primer strikes (doubtful) but it's not a good practice generally.

 

ETA: From froglube's FAQs-

 

Will FrogLube remove petroleum products, oils and grease?

 

Yes. FrogLube dissolves carbon and petro-chemicals on contact. You should discontinue use of petroleum or other petrochemicals as it will conflict with the optimal performance of FrogLube.

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Just a note:

One of frog lube's properties is that it displaces petroleum based products. Meaning that if you treated it with F.L. and then applied oil/grease, the F.L. will push the oil right off the parts you put it on.

 

Don't know of that has anything to do with the light primer strikes (doubtful) but it's not a good practice generally.

 

ETA: From froglube's FAQs-

 

Will FrogLube remove petroleum products, oils and grease?

 

Yes. FrogLube dissolves carbon and petro-chemicals on contact. You should discontinue use of petroleum or other petrochemicals as it will conflict with the optimal performance of FrogLube.

 

Thanks much.  So far, I've disassembled the slide short of actually exposing the firing pin. The gun is, generally dirty and needs a good cleaning,  but I think I also need to get into the firing pin assembly and look there. I did find pictures of a "good" firing pin, so I know what to look for now.  I've also found YouTube videos on how to disassemble the firing pin mechanism, but it seems I lack the proper tools for it (punch set, magnifier to view the pin up close, vice grip to hold things, etc.).

 

I guess I'll get "geared up" for all this, eventually, :)  but I have a bit of a time problem right now. I'll do the cleaning as best I can. But if that doesn't resolve the problem, I'll have to go get it smithed.

 

Looks like MidwayUSA sells replacement firing pins ($15.95). Not sure if that's cheap or not, but at least it's not $159.00... :D

 

I'll keep you posted.  Thanks all.

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I was at an outdoor range, yesterday with my 2A mentor. I loaded up my P226 (it's been a while since I've shot it)  with some AE 147gr flat heads. 

 

"Goin' Hot..,"  and then.... "Click...."  nothing..... 

 

I wait to ensure it wasn't a hang fire, then cleared the weapon and ejected the round.  Sure enough there was a light depression in the primer.  I tried again, and "click...." nothing... 

 

My mentor loaned me some standard AE 115Gr round nose. I loaded up two of those. And,  lo and behold,  they fire without issue! Then I tried some of my Hornady "Critical Duty" rounds.  First round.... BANG!   No problem.  2nd round..... ."click......"  Ruh-Roh.....  :shok:  As before, a light depression in the primer. One more time with Hornady and..... "click....."  nothing!  :mad:  I try the flat heads in my Shield, and "BANG....BANG...BANG..." all fires, no issues.

 

So, I'm thinking, maybe a "sticky firing pin" in the P226?  Perhaps a more detailed cleaning is in order?  Or is this something that may require a bit of smithing? 

FTR, my P226 is the only one of my inventory that I cleaned initially with "Froglube."  My mentor has soured quite a bit on FrogLube, now. The other of my inventory has been cleaned with Hoppes 9 and Hoppes std. oil, along with gun grease for the rails.

 

Anyway, all help truly appreciated, since I have to use this gun later this month for my MAG-40 class. If I'm going to need smithing, I need to know ASAP. I also need to find a good gunsmith that does P226's in the Gainesville FL area.

 

Thanks much all.  :)

 

Only thing I could think off is a FP spring with a bit more power if the primers on those rounds are really hard.

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Thanks much.  So far, I've disassembled the slide short of actually exposing the firing pin. The gun is, generally dirty and needs a good cleaning,  but I think I also need to get into the firing pin assembly and look there. I did find pictures of a "good" firing pin, so I know what to look for now.  I've also found YouTube videos on how to disassemble the firing pin mechanism, but it seems I lack the proper tools for it (punch set, magnifier to view the pin up close, vice grip to hold things, etc.).

 

I guess I'll get "geared up" for all this, eventually, :)  but I have a bit of a time problem right now. I'll do the cleaning as best I can. But if that doesn't resolve the problem, I'll have to go get it smithed.

 

Looks like MidwayUSA sells replacement firing pins ($15.95). Not sure if that's cheap or not, but at least it's not $159.00... :D

 

I'll keep you posted.  Thanks all.

 

Numrich also has them: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SigarmsSigSauer-33490/AutoPistols-41939/P226-35186.htm?results=100

 

EDIT: Would SIG not work on it for you? I know you said you lack the tools (punch set, etc.) what about sending it in for repair? it can be returned directly to you.

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Numrich also has them: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SigarmsSigSauer-33490/AutoPistols-41939/P226-35186.htm?results=100

 

EDIT: Would SIG not work on it for you? I know you said you lack the tools (punch set, etc.) what about sending it in for repair? it can be returned directly to you.

 

I would, if I were home, but I am currently "in transit" and on my way to Florida, where I will need this particular gun for a 4-day class.   I'll see what I can dig up locally when I arrive. That is, if a good cleaning doesn't resolve the issue.

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I would, if I were home, but I am currently "in transit" and on my way to Florida, where I will need this particular gun for a 4-day class.   I'll see what I can dig up locally when I arrive. That is, if a good cleaning doesn't resolve the issue.

 

If you still have problems when you get back from the class, here is the contact information for Sig Sauer:

 

Phone: (603) 610-3000 (press #3, then #1 for Customer Service)

Please be advised that contacting us during the peak call times detailed below may increase your wait time experience.

 

Please note: If you are call about information or service on an existing firearm, please be sure to have the serial number ready for the customer service representative.

 

Peak Call Volumes

Monday All Day and Weekday’s 12pm – 3:30pm EST

 

Lightest Call Volumes

Weds-Fri 9am - 12pm EST

 

Thank you for your cooperation and loyalty to the SIG SAUER brand.

 

For your convenience, please refer to our FAQ page prior to submitting your inquiry.

Fax: (603) 610-3005

 

Hours:

Monday - Friday: 8:30AM-8:00PM Eastern time. 

 

US Mail:

SIG SAUER Inc.

Customer Service Dept.

18 Industrial Drive

Exeter, NH 03833-4557

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SIG SAUER® and Blaser® are proud to announce the formation of Blaser USA. Blaser USA will be the exclusive distributor of the Blaser line of hunting rifles, hunting shot guns and competition shotguns. For information on these Blaser products please contact Blaser USA. SIG SAUER will continue distribute the Blaser LRS2 tactical rifle. Product inquiries for the LRS2 should be directed to SIG SAUER Customer Service at (603) 610-3000 x1.

Blaser USA, Inc.

403 East Ramsey Ste.301

San Antonio, TX 78216

210-377-2527 phone

210-377-2533 fax

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Update:  I have taken the cleaned weapon to a local shop where I am currently staying. They are involved with the MAG-40 class I'm about to take. Unfortunately, the SIG armorer wasn't there but will be back before the class starts. The alternate armorer who was there took a quick look and didn't see anything wrong with the pin point or other external mechanisms (hammer, etc.). But he did the "pencil" test (i.e., put a pencil in the barrel, turn it straight up and fire). The pencil did not fully eject, which surprised him.

 

He thinks it might be a dirty/sticky pin chamber. So I will wait until the SIG armorer returns and let him check the pin chamber.

 

Thanks all, I'll keep you posted.

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And another Update:  Took it shooting for the first time after cleaning. It shot everything I gave it, including the Hornady Critical Duty and the AE 147 flat heads. I put 50 rounds through it. Not a problem.

 

But I think I'll have the SIG armorer look at it anyway. It may require a more detailed strip and cleaning of the pin chamber.

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