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Kimber45

lil gun vs H110

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Hello everyone... well iam still waiting for my press to arrive and in the meantime ive been looking for supplies for the 300 Blkout. Ive been looking on the web and nobody seems to have H110. I was up at Garden State tonight and they had 2 lbs of LilGun. Ive seen it used for the blackout anyone use this to propel their blackout rounds down range. Also Winchester small rifle primers are they better than the cci...thanks all.

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Lil gun is very very close in burn rate to H110, and lots of people use it with success. When I built my 300blk the only powder I could find was IMR4227 and have had good success pushing 125gr SMKs to 2050fps.

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Lil' Gun along with H110/W296 (same powder) and AA1680 are all great powders for 300BLK.  I have all four and find each has it's strengths with different weight and style bullets.  I use mostly Hornady heads and I really like this caliber.  I am working with Lil' Gun right now working up loads for a new addition for me, 458 SOCOM.  Hornady's 9th edition has a lot of data for their heads in 300BLK.

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Thanks Jon and Tbill. I didnt mention that I will be running supers only and bullits in the 124 gr range. I wanted to start out with something similar to the Remington 124 OTM factory rounds that my ar seems to like. I believe my press will come with that new reloading manual. Also if you guys are looking Garden State just got a bunch of powders,primers and bullets in... not sure of what other powders they got I saw the 2 lbs of lil gun and grabbed them..... they do have Winchester primers in stock also.....

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Thanks for the information.  I usually pick up my supplies either on-line or in PA.  Recently also got lucky and got an 8 pounder of Lil' Gun.  Hornady 125SST over 18.7 Lil' Gun gets 2000FPS. Follow safe reloading practices. YMMV  on a 16" Carbine  Or one of my favorites Hornady 208Amax over 14.5 AA1680 for 1400 FPS.  For the smaller Hogzillas.

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Medic2264 thanks for the recipe... what lenth barrel are you running and is it a carbine gas system? Fishunter thanks for the swap but iam going to try this lil gun first....

 

14.5" Barrel with PWS FSC30 compensator, carbine length gas system.

 

using the hornady bullet comparator and measuring of the bullet olgive I set the COL to 1.5".  

309823DF-3D3E-41F1-A67A-8DD74FA8E4B8-888

 

Just remember to zero you calipers with the comparator installed.

 

7C9AE652-B13E-454D-9B7D-8D6DDFBA7749-888

 

This is for feeding reliability with magazines.  Blue arrow shows how the case neck of a 5.56 rides along the inside rib of the magazine.  When we cut down and re-neck a case to 300 AAC Blackout, we are now using the bullet (RED ARROW) to ride along the inside rib of the magazine.  Setting the correct seating depth so thickness of the bullet is the same thickness of the case neck of a 5.56 will give you more reliable feeding.

  

d54e256c-a274-48f7-8fbe-bf782db1209f_zps

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Also, don't forget about case wall thickness when choosing what brass to cut down and resize.

 

http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599

 

Good:

ADI - 0.012"
Aguila - 0.012"
A USA - 0.012"
FC - 0.013/0.014" [Note 1]
GFL - 0.012"
HB - 0.013"
Hornady (223 headstamp) - 0.011"
Hornady (nickel 223) - 0.012"
IMI - 0.012" [Note 4]
IVI - 0.013"
IVI ('85) - 0.012" (runs great)
LC - 0.011"
LC (converted blank) - 0.012"
PERFECTA 223 rem. - 0.012"
PMC - modern "bronze" and "X-tac" are good, older PMC with small letters may have problems
PS - 0.011/0.012"
PSD - 0.011"
RA - 0.013"
RA ('69) - 0.012"
RP .223 - 0.011'
SSA - 0.012"
TAA - 0.013" - Usually good, some variants may cause problem
Tula - 0.0115"
TZZ - 0.012"
WCC - 0.010/0.011"
Winchester - 0.011"
WIN NT - 0.011"


Thick neck wall, bad without neck turning:

ATI - 0.015" [Note 3]
CBC - 0.014/0.015"
CJ6 - 0.015"
DNL - 0.016"
FNM - 0.016" [Note 3]
GECO - 0.015/0.016"
Hot Shot - 0.014" [Note 3]
HRTRS ( Herters?) - 0.017"
IK03 - 0.015"
IMI - 0.015" [Note 4]
KFA .223 REM - 0.015"-0.019"
MKE13 - Anecdotally reported as troublesome
MPA - 0.015"
NPA - [Note 3]
PMC (old headstamp) - 0.015"
PMP - 0.015"
PPU - 0.014/0.015" [Note 3]
RORG - 0.015"
RWS - 0.014-0.015"
S&B - 0.015/0.017"
Wolf Brass .223 - 0.014"

Note 1:
"FC" brass includes several types of brass that don't seem to come from the same factory. Most of them are good to go, but the "thin web" FC that turned up a few years back tends to have thicker walls and will cause neck thickness problems. The FC that runs thicker is the newer stuff. Has beautiful annealing marks on it. Has FC @ 12:00, numbers @ 3:00 and/or 9:00 (May have both, could just have one), and the year @ 6:00


Note 2:
NPA is very low quality brass, with a super small flash hole, and is likely to cause broken or stuck decapping pins, or other problems.

Note 3:
The brass marked with this note may require extra sizing force, and machine flex may cause them to headspace too large if the machine is not set up specifically to do this "harder sizing" brass. This is due to thicker brass, alloy variations, or variations in factory anneal. This isn't always universal within a headstamp, for example, some older PPU had the problem and others did not.  

Note 4:
This brass is included in both the good and the bad list based on differing user reports. It is important to keep in mind that sometimes a single headstamp can be made at multiple factories on multiple differing manufacturing processes. Other times a manufacturer that has their own brass factory might bring in brass from another manufacturer during times of high demand or to fulfill a large contract.

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Thanks for the info, Medic.  I never had that problem only using IVI and LC brass.  I did try the LC blank brass and it works well if you anneal it, otherwise splits after a few reloads.  Just not sure the effort is worth it.  My IVI (Canadian) from '88 seems to hold up the best.  I do not use PMags so maybe that's why I never had the problem. (Use D&H metal mags).

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