Anyone else find this overwhelming?

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Considering my first AR.

 

Building is obviously and option, but I'm a noob.

 

I don't understand the vernacular.  All you guys talk in acronyms.  

 

As an example, I figured out what a BSG is, but still don't fully appreciate what it does, and the why and how of what it does affecting the performance of the firearm.

 

I've read some of the threads including the AR for Noobs stickied at the top.

 

I'm really torn with just buying a colt or M&P 15 off the rack and calling it a day.

 

I'm OK if you point and laugh. 

 

: )

 

 

 

 

[Lalo 13]

Why don't you get with someone from the forum that has some experience with an AR and have them show you the ropes. You can also find someone else who wants to build an AR and build them together to help each other out. Some ranges have classes you can take that basically walk you step by step on how to build an upper and lower and they provide the tools. The whole thing is really not that difficult at all. If you're not sure of your skills, then you can just put the lower together and buy a complete upper.

 

There is also nothing wrong with not wanting to do that and just picking up an AR off the shelf. The Colt LE6920/40 is a very popular one if you're planning on not making any changes to it. If you're planning on getting a different stock, grip, better trigger, etc, then you'll probably save money if you build it.

[Blacksmythe 71]

Build a beAR class at GUN FOR HIRE! Jimmy will walk you through it and can assist with ordering parts. Check them out.

[NYMetsFan86 9]

This helped me gather parts, just finished build 4..

 

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/miscellaneous/arclform.pdf

[DirtyDigz 1,811]

KoQ, ask and we'll do our best to answer.  I don't consider myself an AR expert, but I started from knowing zilch about them to doing lots of reading online and then assembling my own.

 

Plenty of people here, including me, will be happy to answer any questions you may have (and also launch into tangent arguments....)

[High Exposure 5,661]

KoQ,

 

Buying a complete Colt or S&W (not a sporter) is a fine way to start. You don't have to build your own, and prices on complete ARs are really good tight now (CDNN regularly has Colt 6920 for under $900). You can always upgrade the rifle you bought to fit your needs and wants after the fact, after you shoot it for a it and learn what you may or may not want.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Thanks guys.  I appreciate all of the replies.

 

That form that NYMets fan provided is interesting.

 

I'm going to print it and give an attempt at filling it out.

 

It seems to walk you through the basic process.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

KoQ, ask and we'll do our best to answer.  I don't consider myself an AR expert, but I started from knowing zilch about them to doing lots of reading online and then assembling my own.

 

Plenty of people here, including me, will be happy to answer any questions you may have (and also launch into tangent arguments....)

Thanks.

 

So one or two basic questions.

 

I'm going to need a lower, and an upper, and sights/optics. Right?

 

I can buy a completely stripped lower and add my own trigger, butt stock and such.  Or I can buy the entire unit as one?

 

The upper comes with the barrel and the hand guard?

[High Exposure 5,661]

It depends.....

 

You can do as little or as much as you want - from buying a complete rifle to installing every component yourself.

 

I started with a compete rifle - a bushmaster XM15. It was a dog and never worked. I had to learn as I went about diagnosing and fixing all the issues it had. Once I got it reliable, I started to making personal changes in appearance and comfort to be what I wanted. It cost a bit more overall but that process taught me a lot about the rifle, my shooting, and how they interface and what I really wanted to do. Plus the $$ was spread out over years as I learned and tinkered.

 

The rifle was a stock XM15:

 

Now:

[redtornado23 0]

this should help:

 

http://www.ar15outfitters.com/Glossary-of-AR15-Related-Acronyms-Terms_ep_44.html

 

you can buy both the lower and upper as "stripped"  meaning they are incomplete and must be put together - the lower needing a lower parts kit...trigger group, safety, bolt catch, etc. and the upper needing a barrel, hand guard, charging handle, bolt carrier group, etc.  you can buy a complete upper that is already assembled - and possibly a lower (although typically this is self-assembled)

 

you would want to at least have iron sights then beyond that some kind of optic that fits how/what you will be shooting at

 

just keep reading and looking at this and other websites and you'll become familiar with what the options are.  a good way to understand what's available is to browse sites like midwestpx, bravocompany, etc and see what parts are out there, what the differences are, etc.  just take your time and establish what you like, want, your budget, etc.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

this should help:

 

http://www.ar15outfitters.com/Glossary-of-AR15-Related-Acronyms-Terms_ep_44.html

 

That IS helpful. Thanks.

 

High Exposure...I can't believe that's the same gun. lol

[Old Glock guy 1,127]

Hey KOC, don't let them guilt you into building one if you don't want to.  I bought a Stag Arms Model 2 off the shelf, took it out, and started shooting it.  

I've subsequently replaced the trigger with a Geissele, added an Aimpoint PRO and a sling.  I've had loads of fun with it, and have used it through a few

relatively intense training classes.  It has run flawlessly.

 

I think it comes down to time and money; and how interested you are in DIY projects.  I'm not a big DIY guy.  I would rather spend my money, and use my time for shooting and such.  I've been quite happy with my decision.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

I need something light, so building is preferable.

 

Something light AND less expensive than something off the rack is more preferable.

 

I think building is going to give me that result.

 

I'm going to use it for 3 gun events and occasional lead down range but that's about it.

[Vlad G 345]

You can always give me a call or grab me on the range and I'll walk you through it.  I can bring up my 3 different uppers you can look at what works for you best and then you can decide which way you want to go. 

 

My advise is that if you are going to buy something premade, you might as well know which features you really want because it may save you some money. You can buy something with the plastic hanguards but if you end up believing as I do that freefloat is a must you may have been better off getting that way. 

 

I've also built a really light gun for my wife so I've been down the path of figuring out what is worth giving up weight for, and when you shouldn't. I think the entire built for my wife was under $1000 using all high quality parts. 

[NYMetsFan86 9]

I saw mag tactical magnesium lowers on sale that are supposed to be super light

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Why is freefloat a must?

[Vlad G 345]

Why is freefloat a must?

 

It isn't but for me it is. The whole point of a free float handguard is to reduce contact between the barrel and anything else. On a non-free floated gun if you put any reasonable amount of pressure on the handguard you will change where the gun shoots, and noticeably so. I smack my handguard into all sorts of shooting positions and jam it into things for stability.  The other thing is that with free floated handguard you can get them to be much longer (good because you want your support hand out far and to protect more of the barrel), you can get them with or without rails or modular, and because everything longer is better (it isn't all how you use it, lets face it, size matters). 

 

Plus chicks dig it, or some I'm told. 

[blksheep 466]

Its not. Its a preference.

[Vlad G 345]

Its not. Its a preference.

 

Weeeel ... it isn't a preference as in which shape grip you want, it does make a lot more of a difference, but yes you don't NEED one, but you kinda need one

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Vlad's explanation makes sense.

 

That's the kind of info that's very helpful.

 

The process of understating what each part does, and why it does it, and then how that relates the performance of the firearm, is part of what's overwhelming, to me anyway.

 

Is there a benefit to not having a free float?

[Vlad G 345]

 

 

Is there a benefit to not having a free float?

 

Price.  Also some NJ specific assembly/disassembly issues but those can be worked around with proper planning. 

[High Exposure 5,661]

It's Cheaper.

 

If all you are doing is adding a light, vert grip, optic, and sling and you don't plan on shooting long distances while bracing your rifle against Cover/Concealment or shooting national match type competitions, then a free-float is nice but not necessary.

 

Here is my HD gun with Magpul MOE (non-free float) Handguards:

 

16" BCM Midlength, Stag Lower with Colt LPK and Geissele SSA trigger.

 

I will never need this gun to make a 100yard shot on a 2" target while braced against a barricade . This gun will do that anyway - if I do my part - but that is not its purpose so it was put together with its role and my wishes in mind. Altogether it is about a light as I would want it (too light is fatiguing and slow to shoot, too heavy is fatiguing to shoot and carry - you need to strike a balance) and it will do everything I need this rifle to do.

[blksheep 466]

Vlad is right. Unless supreme accuracy is needed at long ranges free float isnt necessary. I do have a DD Omega rail on my BCM out of preference and one on a DMR build I did. I also have a 15" Vtac on a 16 barrel that looks cool.

[High Exposure 5,661]

Honestly, KoQ at this point in your AR experience, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference between a rifle with a free-float and a standard handguard as far as accuracy.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

This gun is going to be used at local 3 gun matches.  No more than 200 yards with the majority of usage close quarters.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Honestly, KoQ at this point in your AR experience, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference between a rifle with a free-float and a standard handguard as far as accuracy.

Valid point and you are probably right.

[High Exposure 5,661]

That's a good place to safe a few hundred dollars on a build and you can always add one later..... Kinda - depending on barrel nuts, gas blocks and pinned/welded comps.

 

I was able to install a Troy Alpha free float tube on my old Bushmaster (the FDE rifle above) because it uses a standard barrel nut to attach. All I had to do was use an angle grinder and dremel to grind down the front sight into a low profile gas block to fit under the rail and remove the delta ring.

 

I have also used the free floating DD Omega 7 and Omega 9 (what Blksheep mentioned) in two other builds with great success. They are a no modification install that took less than 10 minutes each.

 

A free float tube/rail that uses a different barrel nut will be more.... Shall we say challenging to install.

[NYMetsFan86 9]

You can also use a two-piece gas block or one of those two-piece free float rails 

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Aaaaaaand ya both lost me.

 

I just spend some time looking at stripped lower units.

 

Anderson makes a jolly roger one that reads parlay and plunder for fire and safe.  Seems kinda goofy, no.

 

The spider (rollstamp...rollmark?) on the spikes lower looks pretty cool.

 

Plain is nice too.

 

Oy.  Back to overwhelming. 

[Vlad G 345]

Seriously, hit me up next time at a match and we'll talk.