S&W 686 vs. Ruger GP100?

[Stonecoldchavez 92]

This weekend I went to look at the S&W 686 (and a 686 Plus) and a Ruger GP100. I am looking for opinions on either the Ruger GP100 or S&W 686 both in 4.25" barrel, which one and why? The gun will do double duty as range gun and home defense gun.

Based on the four Criteria's below:

Trigger Pull
Accuracy
Ruggedness
Value for Price

 

I have read that some say that the 686 has a better trigger and resale value (not that I really care about that) and the Ruger needs some trigger work to it to be up to par with the S&W 686. The knowledgable guy at the gun store was trying to convince me to look at the Ruger GP100 Match Grade instead of the regular GP100. I noticed some weight difference in the 686 vs. the GP100; that the 686 felt a little bit heavier. Which I am thinking might be better for recoil.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated for this revolver rookie.

 

Thanks,

S.

[RichP 115]

Weight between the 2 looks to be the same.

Trigger on the 686 is better out of the box than a standard GP100.

GP100, lacking a sideplate, would be the stronger of the 2 framewise.

Accuracy should be about equal between the 2, with a possible slight edge given to the more refined S&W.

 

Now, if you start considering the Match Champion, then I would say that the Ruger catches-up to the S&W in trigger and accuracy, while being priced a little more.

[alec.mc 180]

Based on the four Criteria's below:

 

Trigger Pull   - Out of the box, i'd say the smith, though - both could use work to make them better, the smith is easier to work on

Accuracy - Either are probably more accurate then either of us are able to shoot. 

Ruggedness - Neither are going to fall apart in your hands , the Smith has been long proven.

Value for Price - S&W Values are always going up and up. Have the best resale value.

 

 

 

 

 

GP100, lacking a sideplate, would be the stronger of the 2 framewise.

 

 

I'd like to see some info to back this up.

[fishnut 2,358]

both are nice but S&W's are nicer in my opinion. if you want to keep your gun and hand it down to your kids get the S&W, They are heirloom quality guns. if you shoot them for a while and then sell them the gp100 is not a bad choice if you want to save a few bucks

[gleninjersey 2,141]

Both are good guns. I went with the Ruger G100 b/c is was a very good value. The trigger isn't bad at all out of the box and gets better as you shoot it.

Treat it (and any well made gun) right and your kids will be handing it down to their children.

Of your criteria, trigger out of the box most people say S&W is better / more refined. But you're going to shoot the Ruger and it's trigger smoothes out nicely.

For value at time of purchase the Ruger wins. If you think you may sell eventually then the S&W seems to hold resale value a little better.

Both are accurate and both are rugged.

Good luck.

[Pizza Bob 1,488]

Weight between the 2 looks to be the same.

Trigger on the 686 is better out of the box than a standard GP100.

GP100, lacking a sideplate, would be the stronger of the 2 framewise.

Accuracy should be about equal between the 2, with a possible slight edge given to the more refined S&W.

 

Now, if you start considering the Match Champion, then I would say that the Ruger catches-up to the S&W in trigger and accuracy, while being priced a little more.

Poppycock & balderdash.

 

Make mine a Smith - all day, every day.

 

BTW - the S&W has a 4" barrel.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

[Tallday 10]

go to a shop and hold them both. I have both and love them for different reasons.  If I were to have only one I would look into an older smith used, or an Old Colt Trooper Mark III

[buell508 6]

I bought my 686 20 yrs ago it was my first handgun,i still shoot it often and it has run perfectly.

[illy 1]

Trigger Pull-

S&W out of the box will definitely be better.

I've only seen one GP with a trigger as nice as my stock Model 10-3 and it was an older gun that had been tuned as a bowling pin match gun.

 

 

Accuracy-

It's the Indian, not the arrow. Either one will hit where you want as long as you do your part.

That said, a smoother (not necessarily lighter) trigger will make doing your part that much easier.

 

 

Ruggedness-

You're not going to break either one by using it as intended.

The side plate thing, as I understand it, is a non-issue as far as durability.

 

Some people cite the existence of "Ruger only loads" as proof that Ruger revolvers are stronger. In point of fact, that applies only to certain .45 Colt loads and the manuals will state something like 'only safe in Ruger, Freedom Arms and Magnum Research revolvers'.

 

 

There was also an issue with hot, light (110-125gr) .357 ammo causing damage to the top strap of old K-frame S&Ws (aka flame cutting).

The 686 won't have that problem.

 

 

Value for Price-

Depends. If you're looking for a competition gun, the 686 will be a better value, since bringing a GP up to S&W level performance will cost you as much as, if not more than, the initial price difference. Even with the GP100 Match Champion.

 

If you're looking for a stock range/fun/defensive revolver, then the GP100 is just as good for a lot less $.

 

Other considerations-

 

If you like to tinker with your guns, the Ruger internal design is definitely simpler and therefore easier to work on.

 

There's also the internal lock that S&W installs on their newer guns. Though rare, there are reports of the lock engaging during use, rendering the gun inoperable.

Again, it's rare, but I wouldn't want one on any defensive firearm I own.

Of course you can disable the lock yourself (or have a gunsmith do it), but that's kind of like saying you can do a trigger job on a Ruger to make it Smith-like. I'd rather my gun be what I want it to be out of the box.

 

And before anyone poo-poos the lock issue as a non-factor, Smith makes no lock versions of their wheel guns for the L.E. market for a reason. Take that for what it's worth.

 

 

On the pro side, the 686-Plus gives you 7 rounds and there are other Smith models that hold 8.

 

 

 

Conclusion-

 

I don't shoot in gun games. My revolvers are strictly range/home defense guns. As such, they're all Rugers, except for that one Model 10. And all future revolver purchases will likely be Rugers, unless I find a good deal on TRR8.

 

YMMV.

[gleninjersey 2,141]

As you say you are looking for a range gun / home defense and don't care about resale value then it sounds like you shoukd be looking at the GP100. It is less expensive up front, very rugged, plenty accurate and the trigger will smoothe out / lighten up. Honestly, out of the box the GP100 has a nice trigger and it only gets better as you shoot it.

[Pizza Bob 1,488]

Trigger Pull-

S&W out of the box will definitely be better.

I've only seen one GP with a trigger as nice as my stock Model 10-3 and it was an older gun that had been tuned as a bowling pin match gun.

 

Triggers are a crap shoot - you can get a good or lousy trigger from either manufacturer. What may be surprising to some is that the MIM triggers currently used by S&W will generally have a larger percentage of, what people perceive as a good trigger, MIM offers better dimensional stability and smoother surfaces, as molded. Any stock trigger, regardless of manufacturer is only a good starting point.

 

 

There was also an issue with hot, light (110-125gr) .357 ammo causing damage to the top strap of old K-frame S&Ws (aka flame cutting).

The 686 won't have that problem.

 

The top strap is not the issue and never was - all guns may experience flame cutting of the top strap above the forcing cone, but it is self limiting and a non-issue. The problem with the old K-frames was the forcing cone itself, at the six-o'clock position. Due to the size of the cylinder window in the frame, a flat had to be milled on the bottom of the forcing cone for yoke clearance. This created a stress riser (weak point) that would crack with extended use of hot .357 magnum loads (as stated - light pullets/max velocity).

 

I said old K-frame, because with the reintroduction of the model 66, they have gone to a two-piece barrel system which precludes having to mill the flat on the forcing cone, thus solving the cracking problem - which, unless you fired thousands of rounds of full-house magnums, was a non-issue anyway.

 

If you like to tinker with your guns, the Ruger internal design is definitely simpler and therefore easier to work on.

 

I'll reserve judgement on this - never had my Ruger apart. Have had the sideplate off of many a S&W and while it is a little intimidating the first time you do it - it ain't rocket science. It's nice to be able to see how components interact with each other to make your gun work - something you can't do with the trigger assembly pulled out from the bottom. Just be careful of tiny springs.

 

There's also the internal lock that S&W installs on their newer guns. Though rare, there are reports of the lock engaging during use, rendering the gun inoperable. Again, it's rare, but I wouldn't want one on any defensive firearm I own.

Of course you can disable the lock yourself (or have a gunsmith do it), but that's kind of like saying you can do a trigger job on a Ruger to make it Smith-like. I'd rather my gun be what I want it to be out of the box.

 

Bad analogy. The random lock engagement happens, but it has been found to be more prevalent on lightweight, high recoil revolvers. The 686 is no lightweight, and as such only has moderate recoil, even with hot loads. If you wish to disable the lock it takes about 10 minutes and the appearance remains unaltered. All that is required is to file off the small engagement "nub" on the flag.

 

And before anyone poo-poos the lock issue as a non-factor, Smith makes no lock versions of their wheel guns for the L.E. market for a reason. Take that for what it's worth.

 

AFAIK, Smith has offered only one gun without the lock, since instituting them during the Clinton administration. That gun was offered through regular commercial channels. I know of no exclusive LE, non-lock, offering. These days, pretty much the only use LE has for a revolver is the J-frame as a BUG.

 

 

Conclusion-

 

I don't shoot in gun games. My revolvers are strictly range/home defense guns. As such, they're all Rugers, except for that one Model 10. And all future revolver purchases will likely be Rugers, unless I find a good deal on TRR8.

 

Not sure how any of your above statements draw the conclusion that the Ruger is the correct choice, other than the initial cost savings, and to that I say, "You get what you pay for."

 

There is nothing wrong with a Ruger, but for me they are always my second choice. I'd rather have a used S&W, than a new Ruger - but that's just me.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

[302w 83]

 

 

I had to, sorry. AFAIK, some S&W models are available without locks. I forget what model I was looking at, but it was one of the hammerless J-frames was available with or without a lock. I think it was a centennial? That doesn't sound right.

[Golf battery 1,223]

Yeah i stick with s& w for revolvers because i can take it for granted its going to be the best overall. Just bought a 686 and waiting for my permits to come in to pick it up. My opinion. Just scrap any thoughts on the ruger and go for the smith. History tells its tales.

[Stonecoldchavez 92]

Thank you all for your opinions. I still have a few months to decide as I wait for my permits to come in (ugh!).

 

I have heard that the new S&W have the lock on them. That pre-2001's do not.

 

The gunsmith at the store also told me it was easier to change the sights on the GP100 vs. the S&W 686. Something about the way Ruger pins them makes the sights easier to change.

 

Tallday,

I did go look at them this past weekend. I liked both of them. I have just heard many different opinions on both guns. Some say Smith and Wesson for the name/quality; others say Ruger for the price. Then I have read with the money you spend on upgrading the trigger on the Ruger, you will have spent more then the stock S&W.

 

I like both guns actually. Maybe I will get both. The 686 in 6" and the GP100 in 4.20".

 

S

[illy 1]

 

"I'll reserve judgement on this - never had my Ruger apart. Have had the sideplate off of many a S&W and while it is a little intimidating the first time you do it - it ain't rocket science."

 

I've done both. S&W is more complicated.

 

 

"AFAIK, Smith has offered only one gun without the lock, since instituting them during the Clinton administration. That gun was offered through regular commercial channels. I know of no exclusive LE, non-lock, offering. These days, pretty much the only use LE has for a revolver is the J-frame as a BUG."

 

http://www.sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com/products2.cfm/ID/118192/150544x/smith-and-wesson-442-38-special-no-internal-lock-(le)

 

"Not sure how any of your above statements draw the conclusion that the Ruger is the correct choice, other than the initial cost savings, and to that I say, "You get what you pay for."

 

 

Because I don't need a competition gun for HD.

And while the Smith is nicer in all the ways I mentioned, it's not magic, nor is the Ruger a POS.

[Pizza Bob 1,488]

I own Rugers too, but I prefer S&W's. The ad you linked to may show that distributor's policy (more a sales gimmick) because if you look at the other J-frame, internal-hammer offerings on the same site, they are available to the public - just as S&W intended.

 

Again, not sure of your reasoning when you say you "don't need a competition gun for HD" - Smith builds revolvers period. Up until the introduction of the 929, the last "competition" revolvers they built were the K-22 (today's model 17), K-38 (today's model 14) and the model of 1955 and they were bullseye guns and built like the rest of the line. You see more Smiths in competition for a reason and that same reason makes it the better choice for all applications.

 

I like Rugers, but when it comes to DA revolvers, I always think of them as my second choice.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

[tommyfeds 2]

Shot both..........glad I went with the Smith based on the trigger. HOWEVER I am no marksman or trigger snob, so to that, the GP100 is still beautiful. I just happened to get a good deal on a used 686-3 with a ~1988 production date based on a stamp on the inside of the grips. 

 

I would like to leave this here...........

 

[Stonecoldchavez 92]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their comments and opinions on which wheelgun to chose.

 

After shooting a friend of mines S&W 586 6" a couple of weeks ago I decided to go with the S&W. Yesterday I put money down (as I wait patiently for my P2Ps to come in) on a new S&W 686 Plus .357 with a 4'' barrel.

 

Thanks again.

 

What to purchase with my other two permits now? Hmmmm?.......

 

S.

[CMJeepster 2,778]

You'll love it!

[Golf battery 1,223]

Just got a 686 a few months ago. Like it alot. I went with the regular not plus because it puts you in a different category for idpa. Other than that i woulda gone plus also. I understand if you want you can send it to s&w custom shop for trigger work for about 90$. So now i can start competing against Alec and Bob.

[Springfield1911 22]

Older S&W yes. New S&W with the lock. No way. Ruger all day. I love my GP100 and it's extremely accurate. Its really a matter of preference. They are both equally great guns but you will pay $300 more for the S&W. Can't believe the amount of Ruger haters on this board.

[bennj 215]

I am very satisfied with my 5" GP100 so I'm definitely not a Ruger hater, but the difference between the S&W Hillary hole issue and the GP's transfer bar issue is 6 of one, half dozen of the other. I have found the price difference between both to be more in the $100-125 range. If I was independently wealthy like some members here I would have at least one 4" 686-3.

[CMJeepster 2,778]

If I was independently wealthy like some members here I would have at least one 4" 686-3.

I'm not independently wealthy, but was fortunate enough to find a used 4" 686-3. I brought it home and have been in love ever since!

[Golf battery 1,223]

Im independently wealthy and when i drink. I drink dos equis. Kinda like now.

[CMJeepster 2,778]

Good one, but that gives me the craving for real Mexican food.

 

Let's talk mulch. You guys got black dyed in stock for delivery?

[Golf battery 1,223]

Next week. Or as in about 2-3 days. If you call up for a delivery just tell them cm for mulch. Ill hook you up. Say ed said hell bill me. Something of that sorts.

[bennj 215]

From firearms to beer to mulch, I'm afraid to see where this thread goes next. Hope everyone had a blessed Easter/beautiful day today.

[Golf battery 1,223]

Yeah. I guess im a redneck. What the hell am i still doing living in the northeast.

[Stonecoldchavez 92]

Finally, after waiting 12 weeks for my P2P's to come in I picked up my SW 686+ 4" .357 yesterday. I wanted to thank all of you who gave me your advice and imput.

 

I also wanted to mention that I purchased it at Howell Gun Works and I am pleased with the service from the owner/partner Tom. He answered all my questions. I would/will purchase from them again.

 

I cannot wait to get out to the range and shoot it.

 

Thanks again,

 

S.

[bennj 215]

Congrats and enjoy the 686. I love my GP100 5", but see a pre-lock 686 in my future.