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Ace08066

Need some help with a decision...

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Hey all, this will be my second post on the forums here as a new (Well, kinda new) gun owner.  I shot with my dad for years, but he passed away 6 years ago and I haven't shot since.  I finally got the ambition to get my FID and get back into the shooting life (Damn I missed it...), and last week I purchased a S&W M&P15 Sport.  I put 100 rounds through it and came to the conclusion I do not like the AR iron sights.  After searching different online parts retailers and browsing the post of all your beautiful rifle pics, I also came to the conclusion my rifle needs to look a little less like something I purchased and more like "mine", so I'm dressing it up on a budget.  

 

I'll be changing the gas block to get rid of the ugly mil spec front sight, and I've watched enough instructional videos on it to feel confident I can do the job, but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask...  Are there any "gotcha" moments I can run into while removing the front sight or installing the new block?  You know, like something I won't see coming as a newbie but could screw me over halfway through the job?  

 

I'm also still debating on just getting a carbine length drop-in quad rail handguard:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1JFNMA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A130RUE64CTRWO

But I'm also debating on just going with a free-float system, though they're a bit pricey and I'd also have to buy the kit to get the delta ring off, so I'll probably save that for later.  

 

The guy at the store told me that a compensator is illegal to have on the rifle in NJ, then no more than 2 hours later I see a picture of someone at a NJ range with a compensator on their AR.  After some investigation, I've found that -most- sources say it's not the attachment that's illegal, it's the actual threading on the barrel that could accept it.  I looked up the wording of the law and it seems to be that way, so...  How might I go about doing that?  Is there a kit I can get somewhere to put a compensator on the stock barrel, or do I have to purchase a barrel with it already affixed?  Just a note: I am very good at welding, but obviously it has to be straight so I'm not going to just plop one on there... but if there's a kit or some proven method of getting it perfect for the backyard gunsmith, then that's a different story.  

 

Also, I like the look of 30 round magazines.  The 10rnd that came with it makes it look like a damn sissy gun.  Is it legal to have a 30 round magazine that's limited to 15?  In all my searching I only found ONE thirty round mag that was pinned to only hold 15, and they wanted $45 for it plus $15 to ship it to Jersey.  There HAS to be a cheaper option...

 

Sorry to be such a noob, but I figured this would be a good place to ask.  I'm also looking for a club to join / range to join in south jersey - currently thinking about SJSC behind Bangers.  Anyone shoot there?  Maybe have me as a guest so I can check it out?

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The AR guys will chime in soon welcome and sorry about your Dad.

 

A flash hider is illegal if your compensator is a brake then your fine, and theres plenty of venders here that sell pinned mags a lot cheaper .

 

And you will see most guys behind the counter at gun shops know crap.

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Does the front sight bother you?  I assume you want some sort of optic.  You can still do that without replacing the gas block.

 

If the front sight bothers you, you can grind down the front sight while retaining the gas block portion.  Changing the gas block isn't rocket science but it sounds like you are on a budget and grinding it down is a inexpensive option.

 

If you go with a drop in carbine length rail system, your best bet is to keep your front sight (or at least the gas block).  You can still go with a free float rail with the stock front sight/gas block.

 

As for the mags, you can go to a local dealer.  They have pinned 15/30 pmags (best ones are by MidwestPX) and some newere hexmags.  You can also order directly from MidwestPX.  I like the 15/30 round mags better as it works better with my large mitts when reloading.

 

As for the compensator, you can do it but I think it's expensive to do on the M&P sport if it is not already threaded.  I would leave this to a professional because if you screw up the crown of the barrel which will impact the accuracy of the rifle.  The tools to do this are also expensive if you are only doing one barrel.  I think there is a clamp on muzzle brake but do you really need one?

 

Your best bet may be to shoot the M&P Sport and then save up for something better when you have more funds.

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you are talking about muzzle attachments and changing the gas block/front sight..

 

question 1 is is your barrel threaded and does it have a brake? if not having the barrel threaded may be more work than it is worth..

 

the first thing I will tell you is I am a fan of sights that are attached to the barrel on an AR since they are obviously solid.. with that said I removed all of mine...

 

drop in rail is the simplest solution but what is it exactly you want to accomplish with adding a hand guard.. blindly adding a hand guard makes no sense to me.. there has to be a reason behind it or there is no reason to do it.. once you figure out the reason it will be far easier for us to make a suggestion.. if you intent to go free float and add a sight it is critical (IMO) that you go with high quality parts..

 

a flash hider is an "evil feature"

a threaded barrel that can accept a flash hider is an "evil feature"

 

so that means IF the barrel is threaded and has a NJ legal muzzle device that device must be permanently attached per ATF guidelines..  

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1) does the gun have a pinned muzzle device or a plain muzzle?  If you have a muzzle device you will need to cut off the front sight tower off the barrel and then replace it with a 2 piece gas block. Not the hardest thing on earth, dremel cut off wheels will be your friend, take your time. Two piece gas blocks work fine and the make all your other plans easier.

 

2) go free float. There is no reason not to, specially if you get the front tower off anyway. At that point you won't even care if it has a specialized barrel nut or uses the factory one. Getting a float tube that uses the factory barrel nut means you don't need barrel nut tools, torque wrenches, or upper blocks. Just cut off the delta ring (see dremel above) and remove everything but the barrel nut (see dremel) then install the handguard over it. If you go with a low profile 2 piece gas block, you can get hanguards that are long and go over the gas block. If that is your plan, make sure the handguard you get is not ultra thin as 2 piece gas blocks are bulkier then once piece ones and won't fit under the ultra slim handguards.

 

3) comps are legal, but if your barrel isn't threaded you are limited to the slip on ones, and I'm not sure they are even made. The Smith one worked ok but I don't think it exists anymore. Talk to one of the gunsmith that deal with perm attached devices in NJ.  Comps don't need to be straight, they need to be RIGHT, sometime installing them canted to best neutralize recoil. Check out Jerry Miculek's video about his comp, he explains why you want it canted.

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Seems to me that you will have more trouble than it's worth making that M&P "yours".  Not that the M&P is a bad rifle or can't be modified but if you are going to go through the trouble and expense you may as well go through the ordeal with a rifle better suited to customization. 

 

As DargZ said, keep the M&P as is, more or less, and enjoy it.  You can add an optic without modifying the gas block site.  Your options are either a red dot or a magnified scope.  You can set up a red dot as co-witness (look it up) or with a magnified optic that makes the front sight virtually disappear.

 

By the time you get done with all of the customizations on the M&P, you will have spent the same amount as if you traded it in for something with all the bells and whistles you wanted in the first place.

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ccrides350: Looking at those 15rd Hexmags from Rebel Arms right now, $12.99, works for me!  And they have the flat earth color too, which is what I wanted.  Saves me the energy of wrapping them.

 

Scorpio64: I'm starting to feel like I'd agree with you, but at the same time I got this rifle because I didn't have the $1400 to spend on the one I *really* wanted, and I've always been more of a build-it over buy-it type of guy...  To be honest, the whole thing kindof snowballed.  I started looking at scopes because I like shooting long range, that brought me to removing the front sight, that brought me to replacing the gas block because it's built into the sight, which brought me to the free-float system just from researching gas blocks...  Think I over-thought it a bit.

 

Vlad G: There's currently no muzzle device on it.  I've been able to research enough to know I just have to remove the two pins and the gas tube pin and it will slide right off.  I'm going to search high and low for a slip-on comp, so far I've found nothing.  The barrel isn't threaded but that's obvious because, you know, only mass murderers would have use for a barrel attachment.

 

vladtepes: No threads on the barrel, it's just a plain old barrel.  To be honest, I don't *need* the compensator...  In fact, I don't really see it making much of a difference unless I had a rock'n'roll switch, which I would have if I could... I wonder if I put a "made in 1985" sticker on the side I could get away with it? :p  But, point is... it looks cool.  That's why I want it.  As far as the handguard goes, I want the quad rail because I want some attachments.  A forward grip and bipod for starters, and when I have some spare spendin' change I'll probably put a flashlight and laser on it just for looks.  Basically, I'm guessing it would be far easier (and probably cheaper) to, if I *really* wanted a compensator, just buy a NJ-compliant threaded barrel with a permanently affixed compensator already on it and just screw it in?

 

DargZ: Looking at the hexmags right now, thanks!  And yes, they bother me greatly.   Thing is, I grew up shooting pistols.  The only rifles I ever shot were open sights like shotguns or lever-action .357, bolt-actions and what not.  What gets on my nerves is looking through the tiny hole at the tiny front post.  Even at 20 yards I felt like two things were bothering me: It takes up so much friggin space in my field of view, and it was difficult to focus the target and sight properly.  I should probably note that I shoot with both eyes open.  Always have, always practiced that way and I'm damn good with a pistol that way.  Little tip I picked up from my dad, he was a Korean war veteran.  And yes sir, I'm planning to put optics on it.  Simple 4x32 IR scope to start out, eventually maybe a canted rds just to look cool and so it's more practical for home defense.  I was told I can just get an adapter that will raise the optics over the front sight, but I've seen rifles with that and they look weird to me.  I like the low-profile look of the scope sitting close to the rails better.  

 

junkmanted: Glad to be here, and thanks.  I know the flash hider is illegal, but really I only want the compensator mostly for the look and I'm hoping it will make it slightly easier to stay on target post-shot for *slightly* quicker follow-ups, but to be honest I've never been in a position to compare with-and-without.  

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys.  

 

Dargz makes a good point... I had considered just grinding down the front sight to save me the hassle, but my initial thinking on it was I'm going to be ruining the front sights and I didn't want to fubar anything.  Upon further investigation, mil-spec front sights are actually cheaper than a quality replacement gas block...  So...  Either way I kinda win by just grinding them off.  Sparks will fly in my shop tomorrow.  :p  I'll just do that, get that drop-in quad rail for $28 bucks, and then either save my pennies for the free-float or, depending on how the next few months go at work, maybe sell this rifle to my buddy when his FID finally comes through and buy something a little more customizable.  

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Scorpio64: I'm starting to feel like I'd agree with you, but at the same time I got this rifle because I didn't have the $1400 to spend on the one I *really* wanted, and I've always been more of a build-it over buy-it type of guy...  To be honest, the whole thing kindof snowballed.  I started looking at scopes because I like shooting long range, that brought me to removing the front sight, that brought me to replacing the gas block because it's built into the sight, which brought me to the free-float system just from researching gas blocks...  Think I over-thought it a bit.

 

 

You can build a rifle every bit as good,as the M&P for well under $700, in fact, you can build a better one for that amount.  Right now Palmetto State Armory has entry level kits available for just under $500. 

 

About two years ago, at the height of the panic, I started accumulating parts for my SPR build, 18" stainless 223 Wylde match bbl, free float and a handsome skeleton stock for under $800.  Sure you can easily sink $1,400 into a build but if you are patient, you can build a fantastic rig for half that.  I was patient, waited for parts to go on sale, it took me almost a year to gather the parts at the right price but I got them.  At the time, rifles with the same specs would have cost nearly twice what I paid in the end.  Palmetto State Armory was my primary source but I got a few parts from whatever vendor had the best prices.

 

So, this is my advice, keep the M&P, add an optic and enjoy it as is.  Start buying parts for a build, buy parts only when they are on sale.  When the build is done, either keep the M&P or sell it to cover a substantial portion of the cost of the build.  Right now it's a buyers market.  There is a glut of AR's and AR parts at the moment and dealers/distributors are eager to clear inventory.

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I suppose if you really want to put all those things on there because they look cool you are on the right track with getting a quad rail...  since your build lacks any emphasis on function I would say you are on the right track... I do not mean that to sound rude just being honest... I have to at least somewhat question hanging all of that stuff off the front of your gun.. 

 

for the record even without full auto a brake can definitely aid in the performance of the gun.. 

 

you can actually just cut the front site down with a dremel and reuse that as a gas block.. I did it on all three of my guns.. and it fit under a noveske NSR which is one of the slimmest hand guards on the market.. 

 

daniel defense makes a nice quad rail.. 

 

good luck with it.. 

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Here is what iwould do. Remove the front sight post. Take the barrel to get threaded and have a muzzle brake of your choice pinned on. I recommend tier one defense in mountainside for the threading. Make sure before you get the barrel threaded you pick out your free float handguards. Then add your buis, optic, sling, foregrip and light.

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Well the guys are giving you an overwhelming amount advice. Which is good. If you want to shoot at sjsc let me know. Ill guest you in and show you the ar platform. Di and piston. Because of my work schedule it would be more like 1600 or later weekdays. Weekends wont work for the next couple of weeks. Just bring 15$ for the guest fee. Great place great range and they will do any transfers or compliancy work needed.

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Dude if your going to go through all of that on an M&P just buy a complete upper with exactly what you want already done. Take your current upper off, go get one of those big plastic totes from your local big box store. Put your old upper in it. Owning and building AR's you will quickly fill that bin up, with all kinds of stuff you think "looks cool" or you "have to have". I'm not trying to be a jerk here, just realistic. Having been through the same thing myself before. And having a big tote full of all the stuff your talking about getting myself, I fully understand how your thinking right now.

 

Again I'm not trying to discourage you in any way or be a "know it all jerk-off". If you're intending to build a long range rifle with optics and a bi-pod, what's the reason for close quarters home defense accessories like a light or lazer? It's kinda like you can't build a NHRA Top Fuel dragster, that can also run 500 laps at a NASCAR track. Gotta pick one or the other. Or build a second rifle like we all find out we "need" to do. Unfortunately that's sometimes a more expensive lesson for some of us. I'm a plumber, I have no kids, and I can afford to build a complete rifle every week and still pay all my bills. Not everyone has that luxury, please don't punish your wallet more than you have to bro.

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Dude if your going to go through all of that on an M&P just buy a complete upper with exactly what you want already done. Take your current upper off, go get one of those big plastic totes from your local big box store. Put your old upper in it. Owning and building AR's you will quickly fill that bin up, with all kinds of stuff you think "looks cool" or you "have to have". I'm not trying to be a jerk here, just realistic. Having been through the same thing myself before. And having a big tote full of all the stuff your talking about getting myself, I fully understand how your thinking right now.

 

Again I'm not trying to discourage you in any way or be a "know it all jerk-off". If you're intending to build a long range rifle with optics and a bi-pod, what's the reason for close quarters home defense accessories like a light or lazer? It's kinda like you can't build a NHRA Top Fuel dragster, that can also run 500 laps at a NASCAR track. Gotta pick one or the other. Or build a second rifle like we all find out we "need" to do. Unfortunately that's sometimes a more expensive lesson for some of us. I'm a plumber, I have no kids, and I can afford to build a complete rifle every week and still pay all my bills. Not everyone has that luxury, please don't punish your wallet more than you have to bro.

 

Hey man, in no manner of tounge would I call you a "know it all jerk-off".  I appreciate the honesty.  To be completely honest myself, the m&p15 sport was an impulse buy after, literally, spending years window shopping AR's and them being out of my price range.  I have a son and a wife that eat most of my pay, and this was pretty much my way of saying, "I'm buying something for myself, god-damnit." Thanks for the advice!

 

But I think you got me wrong on one thing - I'm not trying to turn a carbine into a long range weapon.  I'm fully aware it's a mid-range rifle at best (100 - 300 yards).  I've ordered a nice 4x acog-type optic for it that should be good out to 300, and that's really all I plan to use it for.  As far as hunting with it, I'll be going after wild hog with a buddy of mine and -maybe- take it on a deer trip this coming winter if I don't end up buying something chambered in 7.62/.308 by then.  

 

The bipod and forward grip I want for versatility.  More steady prone shooting for calculated shots and the forward grip for easier target acquisition if I find myself stumbling across an opportunity and have nowhere to set up properly.

 

The flashlight I will not be buying on a budget - that will be 100% for a home defense situation.  A good friend of mine recommended a light that is supposedly the "brightest light on earth", something that would blind an intruder to the point I may not even have to pull the trigger.  

 

The laser...  Well...  a laser on a carbine just makes my wiener wiggle if ya know what I mean.  99% for show, 1% for the off-chance I find myself in a situation where I cannot aim properly but need to fire.

 

 

And High Exposure - Thanks for the vid!!  Make my life 10x easier and less horrified I'm gonna FUBAR my rifle.  lol!  I actually ended up going with a drop-in quad rail, but I still want to lose the front sight.  I tried yesterday shooting with them... I can shoot fine with the ironsights, but I just don't like it at all.  Even if I decide to lose the 4x, I'll put a RDS on it.

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a light being bright is only part of the value.. its ability to lock solid to the rail.. its ability to not shake apart internally while being shot.. used.. and lugged around is all equally if not more important.. 

 

Yeah the one I'm getting is the same one military/LE uses.  A buddy is getting it for me, I don't even know the name of it, I just know he's charging me $80 for it and it's supposedly the brightest combat light on earth.  I tried looking directly into his from about 15 yards away (across his living room and down a hallway) and even with holding two pairs of sunglasses in front of my face I couldn't stare directly into it.  Really turns night into day, lol.  He has his mounted under a sig 1911, which is a pretty cool little fabrication in itself (I don't know if they sell kits for putting the little acc rail on em, but he did his himself).  He doesn't do ARs though, he\s a huge AK fan, so he was little help when I asked him about this stuff.  

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I've been watching this thread and trying to not jump in but.....

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but you are all over the place. You are admittedly new to the platform and frankly, you don't even know what you don't know - and that's ok. No one does in the beginning.

 

Your best bet right now is to take all the money you were going to dump into upgrading this rifle and cheap accessories and buy a sling, a Canadian buttload of ammo, and take a class from a reputable instructor. Get a couple thousands rounds downrange under the eye of someone who knows what they are doing before spending money on a bunch of accessories that are going to end up in a storage bin in a year.

 

The M&P sport is a decent starter gun - you could have done much worse for your first AR. However, it's not really worth dumping money into. You are better off following Deerslayer's advice and saving up to buy a new comete upper, when you are ready, that has everything you want.

 

Until then, shoot the shit out of the rifle as is - then decide if you need a vert grip or a bipod (they very rarely go together on the same rifle). Save the money on the cheap ACOG and save up for something quality. If you want a HD gun, then the ACOG or any magnified optic is really a poor choice. A laser, is a total waste of money, especially in the beginning.

 

The standard front sight is fine, even with an optic. After a few hundred rounds downrange you don't even see it in your field of vision anymore. With a 3x-4x magnified optic, it actually fades away and appears as if you look right through it.

 

I'm not a hunter but check with local laws before taking a .223 on a hunting trip.

 

Beware of "the brightest combat light on Earth". Sounds fishy to me...... I'm LE and I am curious as to what light he thinks we all use.....

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I've been watching this thread and trying to not jump in but.....

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but you are all over the place. You are admittedly new to the platform and frankly, you don't even know what you don't know - and that's ok. No one does in the beginning.

 

Your best bet right now is to take all the money you were going to dump into upgrading this rifle and cheap accessories and buy a sling, a Canadian buttload of ammo, and take a class from a reputable instructor. Get a couple thousands rounds downrange under the eye of someone who knows what they are doing before spending money on a bunch of accessories that are going to end up in a storage bin in a year.

 

The M&P sport is a decent starter gun - you could have done much worse for your first AR. However, it's not really worth dumping money into. You are better off following Deerslayer's advice and saving up to buy a new comete upper, when you are ready, that has everything you want.

 

Until then, shoot the shit out of the rifle as is - then decide if you need a vert grip or a bipod (they very rarely go together on the same rifle). Save the money on the cheap ACOG and save up for something quality. If you want a HD gun, then the ACOG or any magnified optic is really a poor choice. A laser, is a total waste of money, especially in the beginning.

 

The standard front sight is fine, even with an optic. After a few hundred rounds downrange you don't even see it in your field of vision anymore. With a 3x-4x magnified optic, it actually fades away and appears as if you look right through it.

 

I'm not a hunter but check with local laws before taking a .223 on a hunting trip.

 

Beware of "the brightest combat light on Earth". Sounds fishy to me...... I'm LE and I am curious as to what light he thinks we all use.....

 

This is great advice...

 

And I'm curious, what lights do you use on your rifles?

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are your walls painted white or a light color?  The brightest combat light on earth will reflect back and blind you if you shine on a wall close enough, which in a house is very likely.

 

I use a Streamlight TLR-1S on my pistol.  I also have a cheaper brand flashlight on my rifle.  Both are about 100-120 Lumens.

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I appretiate your honesty, High Exposure.  I am definitely new to the AR platform - and fairly new to rifles in general.  I grew up shooting pistols.  My buddy is going to be giving me some fundamental instruction in a few weeks at a range in PA.  I'll also get the chance to play with his AK clone collection and his saiga, which I'm thoroughly looking forward to.  :p  He is a retired Marine and he's a pretty avid shooter so I'm trusting he'll be able to help me knock out any bad habits before they start.  He already got me to stop lowering my head to the rifle and instead bring the rifle to my eye.... By smacking me in the back of the head every time I did it.  LOL  we put about 200 rounds through it when I first purchased it from a standing position at a crumby indoor range, the range he's taking me to is an outdoor range so I'll be able to work on my prone and crouched fire at longer ranges.  

 

He's also giving me that light when we go as well, so I'll post a picture and make/model of it for ya.

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Stop spending good money after "not so" bad.  DS and HE are correct. Put that quad rail you have on and shoot the crap out of it.  Start saving money to build the upper of your dreams.  Then after you do, you can worry about other things. 

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are your walls painted white or a light color? The brightest combat light on earth will reflect back and blind you if you shine on a wall close enough, which in a house is very likely.

 

I use a Streamlight TLR-1S on my pistol. I also have a cheaper brand flashlight on my rifle. Both are about 100-120 Lumens.

This is a common misconception. It is completely untrue that you will "blind" yourself with a bright light indoors. I have a 1000L Surefire P3X fury on my work rifle and a 500L SF X300u on all oft pistols. I have done extensive training in room clearing and CQB as well has dozens of entries. I have yet to blind myself or even be distracted by the light on my rifle. The same goes for the rest of my team mates. None of us have needed a white cane to clear a house yet :p

 

I have never wished for less light on my gun. There have been plenty of times where I wish I had more.

 

500L is the minimum I will put on a rifle - with a preference for 1000L. 200L is the minimum I will put on a pistol - with a preference for 500L.

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I was trained to keep one eye shut in changing light conditions or momentarily when confronted by lights or flares. I do it to this day, including while driving at night and encountering street lights or oncoming cars. When you open the eye your vision returns even if largely lost in one eye.

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I was trained to keep one eye shut in changing light conditions or momentarily when confronted by lights or flares. I do it to this day, including while driving at night and encountering street lights or oncoming cars. When you open the eye your vision returns even if largely lost in one eye.

 

 

Even that doesn't matter if we are talking about HD/CQB/FISHing. Once the light is on, your night adjusted vision is essentially gone, even the eye that's closed (if the ambient light is bright enough). No sense loosing SA by keeping one eye closed, just keep the light on and both eyes open.

 

How do you choose which eye to close? The eye that uses the sights on the long gun or the one that doesn't? Do you switch shoulders so there isn't a dominant eye/shoulder issue? What do you do the next time you need to use the light?

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Even that doesn't matter if we are talking about HD/CQB/FISHing. Once the light is on, your night adjusted vision is essentially gone, even the eye that's closed (if the ambient light is bright enough). No sense loosing SA by keeping one eye closed, just keep the light on and both eyes open.

 

How do you choose which eye to close? The eye that uses the sights on the long gun or the one that doesn't? Do you switch shoulders so there isn't a dominant eye/shoulder issue? What do you do the next time you need to use the light?

Believe it or not, I didn't make this stuff up myself, it was by people better than you :) And, No, it's not primarily intended for clearing buildings. It is intended for rapidly changing conditions.

 

Obviously, you keep the support eye closed. No, you will not lose vision. Even if you are hit with a spotlight, as long as you have been conditioned to close the eye. I have done it inside when prepping to use night vision, and the ambient light did not kill me night vision in the support eye. The idea is that you can see where TF you are going, what you are doing, and what is going on around you. Substantial loss of night vision in the shooting eye does not take you out of the fight. If you can see your sights, your mind will combine the images with both eyes open and one impaired. If not, there are other ways to adjust fire when you are not too concerned about what might be downrange. It is definitely not perfect, but not being able to see where TF you are going or what is happening around you WILL take you out of the fight.

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Old and antiquated TTPs for a mission different than what we are talking about. By the time you have realized that the conditions are changing and close one eye, your night adjusted vision has degraded.

 

We are not navigating a jungle. We are not stumbling around a desert under star clusters. No one here is buillding an AR to sit in a fox hole on the Fulda Gap and repel the Cossack invaders.

 

What you are saying, while it may be valid under certain circumstances, is useless in a HD/CQB/FISHing scenario. We are clearing small rooms in a home.

 

The TTPs I am covering were not created by me either. They were developed by folks with much more experience than either you or I have in this skill set. I have been lucky enough to have been taught by them.

 

Keep your white light on as much as possible and both eyes open.

More light is better than less light.

Fight in the dark like you fight in the day: darkness may obscure you but it won't stop bullets - Cover is more important than concealment.

See them before they see you.

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