"Stubborn" A2 gas block taper pin

[OfcrFek 21]

Ok, I have to rant a lil bit. I'm building an AR mimicking an M16A1, and just received the final pieces from Del-Ton, the rear sight assembly and the barrel. I started assembling the rear sight, and was missing the elevation spring and its roll pin. So I figured I'd just finish everything else. I had a spare gas block/front sight laying around, so I cut off the bayo lug on it and reblued the exposed steel. I then started hammering out the taper pins on the gas block on the barrel. I got one out, but the other is NOT coming out... I tried all the tricks... oil, heat, brute strength... so much so that I almost folded my punch... what are my options (preferably not including a dremel) at this point??

[Ace08066 2]

For what it's worth...  The tip on that punch looks like it has a hell of a shroom on it.  I'd try a new punch.

 

If that doesn't work...  Acetylene and Oxygen never fail.  Just be careful you don't melt the entire block xD

[MidwestPX 172]

I have a special punch that I made just for those damn pins. I took a regular punch and cut it down. This allows me to hit it with a ton of force without bending it. Maybe try that?

[DonG 0]

Ive been in the same boat. Cut the punch off at the bend. sand the edges so it has a little taper " so you don't mar around the pin"  and make sure you have the gas block clamped down on something solid that wont scratch the gas block up,  A long thin punch bends. I did mine with persistence and muscle. once you get it moving  change to a longer punch. It wont be as hard. Good luck !!!

[OfcrFek 21]

Ive been in the same boat. Cut the punch off at the bend. sand the edges so it has a little taper " so you don't mar around the pin"  and make sure you have the gas block clamped down on something solid that wont scratch the gas block up,  A long thin punch bends. I did mine with persistence and muscle. once you get it moving  change to a longer punch. It wont be as hard. Good luck !!!

Ended up doing this. Funny enough, it served 2 purposes. Firstly, like you said, the shorter punch allowed more of the hammer hits to transfer to the pin itself. After a few solid smacks, the taper pin worked itself out. But not only that... I found a Elev Spring in my tool box so all I needed was the roll pin to hold it in. funny enough, the cut off punch tip was the PERFECT size to be the elev spring roll pin. lol. 

[PK90 3,570]

I have this and a 3 pound sledge.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/sight-tools/ar-15-front-sight-bench-block-prod20727.aspx

 

Sent from an undisclosed location.

 

 

[Eric. 9]

fwiw, I use a lil Anti Seize lube on taper pins.  It helps prevent oxidation and makes it a ton easier to remove again.

 

 

Eric

[T1Defense 17]

Soak in pb over night, center punch first then drive it out. If that doesn't work use some heat. If that doesn't work. Get a bigger hammer.

[ADK1113 1]

I used a punch and a 20 ton press

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

[fslater 62]

Duct Tape..... Dont know how or why it will work but you can fix anything with duct tape!

Sorry but I just couldnt hep saying that.

I've pounded out taper pins... They're always a bear. One thing VERY important. Surface its sitting on must be rock solid. What I've found works best is opening a vice just enough that you can put the pin over it and it will fit thru..... Have someone hold it in that position and whale on it...... I use a regular claw hammer and it works......  a 3 or 5 lb sledge should be a sinch

[tattooo 220]

Just bring it to a smith.....sometimes its not worth the hassle