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Sig226GuyNJ

Do I have a problem with my M&P9 Pro?

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I just picked up a NIB M&P9 Pro with a test fire date of Sept of 2015. When I disassembled it to compare it to my M&P40 Pro that I bought in 2011, I noticed something different right away. Now, keep in mind that my older 40 Pro has the APEX Ram, USB, and hard sear in it. The new 9 Pro is bone stock. What I noticed with the new 9 Pro, is that I am able to push the striker forward, and have the firing pin enter the breach. However, if I first pull back away from the breach first, then try to push it back forward, the striker will not go forward unless I manually disengage the striker block. On my old 40 Pro, I can't push the striker forward into the breach at all, unless I manually disengage the striker block. I was under the impression that this was the correct functioning of the striker safety. However, a gunsmith at Smith told me that there is nothing wrong with my new 9 Pro and that is how it's supposed to function. When I asked him why the difference between my older 40 Pro and the new 9 Pro, he said he didn't know.

So what do you guys think? Is my 9 Pro functioning as it was designed to do? If so, why is it different from my 40 Pro?

 

I had Vlad take a look at it yesterday, and he seems to think something is wrong with it. Any other M&P owners care to chime in? Or even check their own pistols to see which way their striker and striker block are functioning?

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My .40 works like yours.

 

However recently I had the shoulder of the firing pin "leg" (the part that has to interface with the striker block) round off such that the firing pin would cam the striker block out of it's own way (!!!)

 

I replaced the firing pin, striker block, sear and trigger bar, all of which had newer revisions than I had. But in doing so I could compare the old firing pin to the new one and I couldn't tell any difference.

 

Since I can't discern any difference in firing pin I was wondering if the striker block hole is further aft on your 9 pro (even the slightest little bit), such that the leg of the firing pin can't get past the block it until it's pulled back a little. If so it would still be safe, since as soon as the slide is moved that firing pin leg will drop past the sear and the striker block will be free to drop down into "blocking position"

 

But it's all wild speculation without seeing your gun

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My .40 works like yours.

 

Your .40 works like my .40 or my 9?

 

However recently I had the shoulder of the firing pin "leg" (the part that has to interface with the striker block) round off such that the firing pin would cam the striker block out of it's own way (!!!)

 

I replaced the firing pin, striker block, sear and trigger bar, all of which had newer revisions than I had. But in doing so I could compare the old firing pin to the new one and I couldn't tell any difference.

 

Since I can't discern any difference in firing pin I was wondering if the striker block hole is further aft on your 9 pro (even the slightest little bit), such that the leg of the firing pin can't get past the block it until it's pulled back a little. If so it would still be safe, since as soon as the slide is moved that firing pin leg will drop past the sear and the striker block will be free to drop down into "blocking position"

 

Vlad put the striker from my .40 into the new 9, and we could not replicate what the striker on the 9 is doing. So there is something different with the striker itself and leads us to believe it's not the striker block as you suggest. (Thanks for your input btw)

 

But it's all wild speculation without seeing your gun

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Sorry...my .40 works like your .40

 

Maybe they did change the firing pin/striker but not enough that my calibrated eyeball can tell. When you put the 9 striker in your old 40 (opposite of what you describe in red) does the .40 start doing the odd behavior?

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Sorry...my .40 works like your .40

 

Maybe they did change the firing pin/striker but not enough that my calibrated eyeball can tell. When you put the 9 striker in your old 40 (opposite of what you describe in red) does the .40 start doing the odd behavior?

I just re-read this post. We did not put the 9 striker into the 40. I will try that tonight though. Good suggestion.

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I had the same question some time ago when I had an apex trigger and DCAEK installed.

 

I tested it the same way you did both before the install and after.  Both ways it performed like your new 9 Pro.  I was able to push the striker forward without depressing the striker block, but if I pulled the striker back first to "set" it.  The striker block behaved as it should.

 

I found a post by S&W, that said this is the correct way to test the operation of the striker block.  That you must pull the striker back first.

 

I'll try and find the post

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I had the same question some time ago when I had an apex trigger and DCAEK installed.

 

I tested it the same way you did both before the install and after.  Both ways it performed like your new 9 Pro.  I was able to push the striker forward without depressing the striker block, but if I pulled the striker back first to "set" it.  The striker block behaved as it should.

 

I found a post by S&W, that said this is the correct way to test the operation of the striker block.  That you must pull the striker back first.

 

I'll try and find the post

Thanks Craig. No need to look for it as I read that last night as well. What's odd is that my older 40 Pro does not behave like this. I do not have to pull the striker back first to engage the block. It blocks the striker even when I don't pull back on it first.

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