Inherited reloading equipment.. Nowhere to start.

[302w 83]

I inherited a ton of equipment and I have no idea where to begin. I am pretty sure I even have multiples of stuff and even dies/brass for guns I don't even own. If you guys can recommend a good link on where to begin reloading I would appreciate it. So far I've located an RCBS rockchucker, a shotgun turret looking press, a Lyman 450 bullet sizer/luber, and a home made capper of some sort. I know I'm on my own for the last bit, but it is still a highly impressive piece of machinery.

 

Also, I plan on doing a LOT of reading before I load stuff.

[Candyman87 10]

When I started reloading, I actually took an NRA Metallic Reloading course... that might be overkill but it got me in front of a lot of well thought out material, helped me understand WHY things are the way they are, the physics behind it, and actually walk through step-by-step in the reloading process. 

 

In my eyes, some of these handgun pressures are in excess of 35,000 psi, and some rifle pressures are twice that. And you're holding them in front of your face. I'm in awe of 3500 psi when I fill my scuba tanks, the thought of something going wrong with 35,000 psi in my hand, I'd rather learn it the right way.

 

Putting in a new primer, powder, and stuffing a bullet in is easy. Knowing why certain things will work and why others won't, is worth the cost of admission.

 

This is one thing I decided NOT to learn from Youtube.

[junkmanted 54]

internet search  , some of the videos you will find will help

[Vlad G 345]

Buy the Lee loading manual. Some people don't like lee gear, but the manual is excellent, the first 20% or so is all about the how and the why, the rest of it is data.

 

Ask lots of questions about anything you don't understand.

[djg0770 481]

Buy the Lee loading manual. Some people don't like lee gear, but the manual is excellent, the first 20% or so is all about the how and the why, the rest of it is data.

 

Ask lots of questions about anything you don't understand.

 

The Lyman reloading manual (49th edition) is also quite good. 

[mikeyjones 88]

Lyman and hornady books are must haves.

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

[ReadDude 0]

I started from scratch myself by reading "ABCs of Reloading" (http://amzn.com/B004GUSBP6) that I downloaded for free from Amazon for my Kindle (with a Prime membership).  This book is about theory and approach to reloading with significant focus on safety and tool choices, etc. It is not a reloading manual.  Once I read that, I figured I understood the concepts, then as others mentioned, I bought the Hornady and Lyman books and read their intro materials for more cook book understanding of what to do and buy.

 

I then went out and purchased equipment (I have largely decided to go Hornady, but that is not really important here.)

 

From there, I decided exactly what I wanted to reload first (.30-06 for an M1 Garand), did my research on the exact loads I wanted to create, then bought supplies as they came available, collected brass, etc.

 

At that time, the youtube videos, powder websites, etc. all become helpful to understand questions, figure out how to use my tools, fix problems, etc.  BTW, The High Road (http://www.thehighroad.org/) has an excellent forum for reloaders that has asked and answered about every possible question in the world about reloading. This forum here has helped me a couple of times as well.

 

I would suggest a question that needs to be answered up front: Why do you want to reload? cost savings, accuracy? fun?  This will help direct your later choices. I decided initially to focus on fun and creating better more accurate loads for my M1. This targetted all my choices for the 1st year.

 

In retrospect, pistol reloading has its advantages for a beginner (simpler preparation of the brass) and If I started over, I would likely have started reloading for my .45ACP first and I would likely have made different purchases based on that decision.

 

With that said, I have been taking my old surplus .30-06 brass and making it significantly more accurate with reloads at less than the cost of the original surplus ammo, so i am getting it all, fun, accuracy and cost savings. Actually until I reloading 5,000 rounds of .30-06, I'll probably never totally amortize the initial equipment costs :-)  Pistol cartridge reloading is hard to save much money on, but you can get accuracy and match to your pistol with fairly simple process.

[djg0770 481]

Pistol cartridge reloading is hard to save much money on

 

Oh rly? See for yourself:

 

Using this calculator

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

 

38 special costs me $5.40 per 50 rounds

45 acp costs me about $7.22 per 50 rounds

(above calculated using lead bullets)

[PeteF 1,044]

Oh rly? See for yourself:

 

Using this calculator

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

 

38 special costs me $5.40 per 50 rounds

45 acp costs me about $7.22 per 50 rounds

(above calculated using lead bullets)

That's around what I've been seeing in my loading. I run about 1/3 retail for reloads. Use mostly extreme plated for pistols.

 

As to OP. Clean and inspect everything you received.

[ReadDude 0]

That's around what I've been seeing in my loading. I run about 1/3 retail for reloads. Use mostly extreme plated for pistols.

 

As to OP. Clean and inspect everything you received.

 

Well, I guess I need to find better sources of plated bullets then, primers and powder. With the dearth of reloading supplies, I have found that for pistol, the primers about 3.5 to 4 cents per round, powder is about 1+ cents per round and bullets are 15 to 17 cents going with plated bullets (I prefer to not go lead) for .45 ACP. that means I can't beat 20 to 22 cents per round before equipment costs are considered. that is a good savings, but it is surely not 1/3 of retail... For 9mm, I haven't I found cheap plated bullets that are any cheaper meaning that in the end, I am still around 20 cents per round and I can buy new in bulk for 30 cents if I am patient. Still some savings, but not like what I see with rifle ammo where I am easily saving 60-70% without really trying when compared to new retail.

[PeteF 1,044]

Well, I guess I need to find better sources of plated bullets then, primers and powder. With the dearth of reloading supplies, I have found that for pistol, the primers about 3.5 to 4 cents per round, powder is about 1+ cents per round and bullets are 15 to 17 cents going with plated bullets (I prefer to not go lead) for .45 ACP. that means I can't beat 20 to 22 cents per round before equipment costs are considered. that is a good savings, but it is surely not 1/3 of retail... For 9mm, I haven't I found cheap plated bullets that are any cheaper meaning that in the end, I am still around 20 cents per round and I can buy new in bulk for 30 cents if I am patient. Still some savings, but not like what I see with rifle ammo where I am easily saving 60-70% without really trying when compared to new retail.

230 grain plated .12

http://www.XtremeBullets.com/45-s/48048.htm

Powder is currently tough ~.02 - .03

Primers: Buy bulk and save Wideners has been having sales of 22.50 / k

 

No cost brass.

8-9 bucks for 230 grain 45s, best I've seen recently in a store was 24.00

So right around 1/3

[ReadDude 0]

230 grain plated .12

http://www.XtremeBullets.com/45-s/48048.htm

Powder is currently tough ~.02 - .03

Primers: Buy bulk and save Wideners has been having sales of 22.50 / k

 

No cost brass.

8-9 bucks for 230 grain 45s, best I've seen recently in a store was 24.00

So right around 1/3

Xtreme Does seem to be a very good deal on bullets,  I had not looked at them before. Lots to learn. I am going to give them a try, Thanks!

 

As to primers, I hadn't purchased online due to hazmat fees, but I may do as you say and buy a big order to spread out the cost. I had been picking them up in person when I could.

 

I think things are starting to get better on supply so maybe I can make the cost savings thing really work for so I can shoot more and spend just as much :-)

[302w 83]

So.. I think I have this sorted out. Somewhat.

 

I organized most of my stuff. My plan tomorrow is to bolt down my RCBS Rock Chucker and size/deprime some 223. My 223 dies consist of one standard decapper/sizer and the "Gold Medal" RCBS 223 die. The black annodized looking one with the bullet hole (not annodized since it is steel obviously). I'm not quite sure how that one works so I have some reading.

 

Sizing seems pretty simple. My next thing is I want to build a tumbler. I have a drill press I can sacrifice but I really want a horizontally spinning tumbling bucket so I can build one that looks like a cement mixer. 

 

Also, are case trimmer inserts interchangleable? Like the roundstock looking piece that the brass sits in? I have one made by a company whoose name I forget for .30-06 only. 

[PeteF 1,044]

So.. I think I have this sorted out. Somewhat.

 

I organized most of my stuff. My plan tomorrow is to bolt down my RCBS Rock Chucker and size/deprime some 223. My 223 dies consist of one standard decapper/sizer and the "Gold Medal" RCBS 223 die. The black annodized looking one with the bullet hole (not annodized since it is steel obviously). I'm not quite sure how that one works so I have some reading.

 

Sizing seems pretty simple. My next thing is I want to build a tumbler. I have a drill press I can sacrifice but I really want a horizontally spinning tumbling bucket so I can build one that looks like a cement mixer. 

 

Also, are case trimmer inserts interchangleable? Like the roundstock looking piece that the brass sits in? I have one made by a company whoose name I forget for .30-06 only.

When bolting press down, you want something extremely stable. A 30-06 will take a little force to resize if you full length size. Read, Read Read. If you have even the slightest doubt, stop ask a question or read more.

 

Are you looking to wet tumble or dry vibrate?

Wet: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/70444-advice-on-wet-tumbler/?p=891337 if ALec still has his or http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/61639-some-real-grungy-brass-turned-to-bling/?hl=%2Bgrungy+%2Bbrass+%2Bturned+%2Bbling

 

Dry: Any number of places to get one. I have a Harbor Freight that has been going strong for 5 years with no burps. Got it for ~49 buck IIRC

[302w 83]

Dry media with walnut shells. My reloading setup is too far from a drain and I know I would make a mess. Does dry media need a vibrating setup or can a "cement mixer" type suffice?

 

My setup is an ooolllddd solid core door that was trimmed to fit as a workbench and then framed again with pine. 

[ReadDude 0]

BTW, heed the call for a strong mounting surface for the press. I am reloading .30-06 and the 1" plywood over a 2x6 frame still flexes (with one of the lag bolts into the 2x6). I am going to build up the surface to at least 2" with another layer of plywood  (I reused an old workbench I built that was plenty strong for its original purpose.)

[PeteF 1,044]

Dry media with walnut shells. My reloading setup is too far from a drain and I know I would make a mess. Does dry media need a vibrating setup or can a "cement mixer" type suffice?

 

My setup is an ooolllddd solid core door that was trimmed to fit as a workbench and then framed again with pine.

 

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/71392-homemade-brass-tumbler/

They can be simple or complex depending on how many and what type you want to clean.'

[magnawing 5]

Thanks for the reference Pete

 

 

This signature is AWESOME!!!

[302w 83]

Here is some of my more interesting equipment. Here is my home made capper, or whatever the proper term is for a primer-putter-inner. My grandfather made it and it is an impressive piece of machinery. I really wish he taught me how to reload before he died in 2008 but we were never really close unfortunately. If I got into guns while he was alive I imagine we would have a lot more in common.

 

I think it is sized for small rifle primers. I do not know if large rifle primers or pistol primers will work. 

 

 

 

 

Here is my case trimmer. I may replace it. The insert in the center says LE WILSON and is for .30-06 and a few other pieces of brass. I need .223 and unless I find the rest of them I will just buy an RCBS one.

 

[magnawing 5]

Check eBay for parts.

 

 

This signature is AWESOME!!!

[T Bill 649]

I think it is sized for small rifle primers. I do not know if large rifle primers or pistol primers will work. 

The insert in the center says LE WILSON and is for .30-06 and a few other pieces of brass.

Two things.

 

Everybody is told primers come in two sizes, small and large, and basically they are correct for diameter. They are also different in height. Usually not an issue as everybody today adjusts depth as they set up their press.  Some old equipment however were dedicated to a specific function.  Careful when seating primers, you do not want one to detonate while seating, nasty.  And if their brothers are laying around on the bench in the open they'll join the fray.  Just plain ugly.

 

LE Wilson is still in business see if they can help you.  Good people there.

 

I know a lot on this board like wet tumbling, but for me dry is the way I go. Good enough results for me.  Stored bright shiny brass oxidizes over time too!  I have a older Lyman vibratory that just keeps going and going on a cheap little timer.  Media is half and half by volume of corn cob and "lizard litter" aka ground walnut shells.  To that I add two capfuls of liquid Nu Finish car wax and run the machine for 15-20 minutes to mix it all up, toss in the brass and set the timer for however long it takes.  You'll know with experience.  Then I forget about it till later or the next day.  Load the next batch, move on.  Washing, drying, etc., hell, I hate doing laundry and I'm sure not making a chore out of this.  A WFT trimmer on a drill is about as fast as you can go short of a Dillon that sits on the press.  Yes a Giraud is tops but expensive (they now have a trimmer similar to WFT also).  If done right bottle neck brass cases do not have to be trimmed every time unless looking for accuracy or you want to.  The trim to length has a fudge factor that you can use.  For example 223 trim length is 1.750 +/- .01, so trim length can be 1.74 to 1.76.  Trim short and let the cases work their way to max.  I do not load hot rounds, no need too and the brass lasts longer.  Middle of the road loads work just as well.

[302w 83]

Okay, so I started to size/reprime and on my sixth case I managed to rip the shoulder off of a 223 case. What did I do wrong?

 

The die was set about 1/16 from the top of the shell holder with the ram all the way when I started. I reset the die as per the instructions. Ram all the way, touch the shell holder, lower ram, turn die in one eighth of a turn and lock.

 

Then I wiped off around the case neck, lubed the business end of the case to the shoulder, and sent it through the rock chucker. Sixth piece rips at the headstamp.

[302w 83]

When I said rip the shoulder, the case was stuck in the die and the rim was ripped off.

[ReadDude 0]

Most likely did not have enough lubrication on the brass. I have done that with .30-06 only when I under lubed it.

[302w 83]

I randomly found a 3/16 drill bit, a 1/4-20 bolt and tap, and managed to pull it out using a snap on socket as a spacer. I'm happy.

 

Edit: this is silly, but how do I want to lube my brass? Lube the whole exterior and inside the neck? I'm likely to get carbide expander balls if you need to lube inside the neck

[Recon Racoon 49]

I randomly found a 3/16 drill bit, a 1/4-20 bolt and tap, and managed to pull it out using a snap on socket as a spacer. I'm happy.

 

Edit: this is silly, but how do I want to lube my brass? Lube the whole exterior and inside the neck? I'm likely to get carbide expander balls if you need to lube inside the neck

You don't want to lube the inside of the case mouth. If you do, when you go to charge the case you might contaminate the powder and have ignition issues. 

 

When I resize brass, I use lee case lube an use a tiny drop rolled between my fingers. Its enough to get two cases lubed, without over lubing and causing rolls in the neck or shoulder of the case. I've sized 7.7x58mm brass and haven't had a stuck case, or needed to be to forceful to size this way. Is it  the absolute final correct way? God no, but it works for me. 

[Respect2A 0]

You need a lube pad. You can roll a few at a time and lube em up. I've got an rcbs lube pad. You don't want to lube the shoulder because you can mess up the brass. I lube the inside neck slightly and have no issues with contaminated powder. You're going to tumble after anyway. I use a case prep center from rcbs.

[T Bill 649]

To get started just can a can of Hornady Case Lube, spray it on per instruction and go at it.  I will give you a formula for lanolin and alcohol that can't be beat but takes a bit of getting used to.  A hick in the learning curve you don't need now. 
 
The formula is:

A solution of 1 part pure liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to16 - 20 oz of isopropyl) works well. When mixing you may find that the lanolin mixes better if you warm both the alcohol and lanolin in a bath of warm water to about 105 - 110 degrees F before mixing. DO NOT WARM EITHER OF THEM OVER AN OPEN FLAME! Once the solutions are warm, pour together, mix thoroughly, allow the mix to cool (mix occasionally as it cools) and store in an air tight container to prevent water from being absorbed by the isopropyl.

For a spray bottle you can use an old commercial spray lube bottle or an old pump hair spray bottle that has been thoroughly cleaned. To apply the lube, spread the cases in a single layer on a clean surface like an oven tray (those disposable aluminum oven liner trays are great and lightly and evenly spray the cases. Allow the cases to sit for a couple of minutes, roll the cases around and lightly spray again. Wait until the alcohol has evaporated (about 5 minutes) and start sizing. Properly lubed cases will have a slightly greasy feel to them without feeling slimy.

Another neat idea for spraying the cases is to put them in a plastic bag, spray, and then mix the cases, dump out on some newspaper, and let dry. Less messy than putting the cases on an oven tray.

If you have a hard time finding liquid lanolin you can mix a small tub of Hornady Unique case lube and 16 ounces of 91% or 99% isopropyl. If you use the 91% isopropyl you'll need to shake the mix to keep it suspended.

Thanks to Steve Dzupin for this tip (Fr Frog's).

[ReadDude 0]

As a newbie, I have been using the Hornady One-Shot Case Lube as per directions and it works great. Just make sure you use it in a well ventilated area. First time, i didn't think of that and found myself singing Ramones songs about sniffing glue and killing brain cells..... :-)

 

I lay them out on an old t-shirt, spray about 10-15 at a time tops and a bit in the neck, then grab the corners of the t-shirt, folder over, lightly shake the cases around the ensure a relatively even coverage on the surface, then load them. no need to wait more than 30 seconds for the propellant to evaporate.

 

Good thing you had that tools around for drilling and tapping. I had to make a run to Home Depot and it cost me dearly to buy an overpriced tap/die set. I have since found that Harbor Freight had much cheaper and just as usable sets for the hopefully very few times I would need them. Live and Learn. Funny thing, is that now that I have a tap and die set, I have found to to be necessary several more times than zero during the previous 49 years of my life :-)

[Respect2A 0]

I will sing the praises of one shot all day long....for pistol. For rifle I would skip it and use a case lube that's better for bottleneck rifle cartridges. You will get stuck cases with the one shot loading rifle. You may still get a few with other products but it's going to be way less in number. I want to spend time loading not removing cases from the die.

 

When I use one shot for my pistol cases I toss a bunch of cases in a big popcorn bowl, spray, shake a bit and then dump into my case feeder.